Hello Vicky, you are looking upset today. Tell me, what’s wrong?
Sir, it is nothing. The caretaker at my Guwahati home gave away my
grandfather’s gramophone about a month ago while cleaning out unused things. It
was a masterpiece and I developed an ear for music since my childhood listening
to music on it as it played the vinyl records.
That’s so sad but things like this do happen. How would the caretaker
know the value of these priceless antiques that have so much of memories stored
in them? Anyway, don’t lose heart. I will take you to a place in our beautiful
city where many a times such antiques land up from all over, some sold to kabadiwalas and in many cases stolen
from the homes of people who own them. There is a huge market here and often
you can pick up genuine antiques in the midst of look-alikes and fakes.
Let us go there now, Sir. Maybe my grappa’s gramophone has come here and
is yet to find a buyer.
Ok, let us go to Chor Bazaar today.
We boarded a Kali-peeli taxi from Churchgate to Mohammad Ali Road and
shared some trivia with Vicky on the way which was no more than 4.5 km but took
us over an hour and half to reach.
Vicky, did you know, there are two versions of how the place got a name?
The bazaar in the congested area of the city was always so full of people
trying to buy and sell used and second-hand things that there was always a
noise around and the locals called it ‘Shor Bazaar’ or Noisy Bazaar. The
English on the other hand could not pronounce the word Shor and they started
calling it Chor and then the locals, too, started following the white masters.
The second version is that when a Governor General of India was coming to India,
many of his wife’s belongings including a prized violin went missing whilst
getting unloaded from the ship. All of these were traced by the police to have
been put up for sale in this market and hence the name Chor Bazaar.
We, finally, managed to reach Bhendi Bazar and started walking around streets with strange names, the likes of which you will never find elsewhere…. Mutton Street and Butcher Street. We were slightly disappointed when we saw a large number of multi-storied buildings undergoing complete make-over which was taking away the old-world charm of this place with its old houses, no more than a couple of floors, and architecture that was a mixture of Gothic and Saracenic.
In some time, we found ourselves near a couple of shops exhibiting movie posters. We walked into one of them and were told not to take any pictures as some of their exhibits were originals. We saw a huge poster of Amitabh Bachchan and Jaya Bhaduri in Hrishikesh Mukherjee’s film Mili and the proud man there told us that this original piece would cost us rupees three lakhs… possibly in 1975, it would have costed the producers the same amount to make the complete movie! We also got to see some copies which too were priced at over ten thousand each so we just admired the collection and beat a retreat saying, we will be back soon.
We saw many shops selling old artefacts, books and furniture but there
was a full lane devoted to automobiles. Heaps of spares of automobile body,
tyres, lights, horns, batteries and engines were on display here. We also saw a
few young men dismantling cars and they did it in such a hurry that in no time,
every nut and bolt including the number plate was removed and nothing was left
of the original vehicle. We understood why speed was of such essence in this
trade…. any delay may lead to cops confiscating the vehicle and arresting the street
artists. Nicolas Cage’s movie Gone in Sixty Seconds could have been easily shot
here or the Formula One pit stop teams could hire these boys at no cost and yet
do the tyre changes manually during the races with speed better than the
trained crew.
We finally found the shop that Vicky was so desperately looking for… one which had old cameras and gramophones of all makes and models. Vicky was able to locate the same make and model that his grappa had left behind but sadly, it wasn’t the original piece for it did not have the old man’s name etched on the base. The shopkeeper told Vicky that he will do it for him free of charge and that the set was fully functional. He would drop five old vinyl records additionally to sweeten the deal but Vicky seemed confused.
Keep this piece for a week and if I do not come back by then, you may
sell it to anyone. I need this time to think if at all I should buy this piece
or not.
The shopkeeper readily agreed and handed Vicky his business card. He
spoke with a lot of confidence, “You name anything and you will find it here,
no matter how old or how special that thing might be…Chor Bazaar will never let
you down.”
With a bit of humour and a bit of sarcasm, Vicky asked…Crown Jewels milega kya?
The shopkeeper said…haan milega…it
is somewhere around for sure.
We laughed and, as we were walking towards the exit, we came across Taj Ice Cream.
This is an iconic eatery that has been making ice cream since 1887 and has enthralled movie stars like Johnny Walker, Waheeda Rehman and Madhubala. We walked in and asked for their special alphonso mango ice cream and started reading about the history of this place and were amazed to find out that they still make ice creams in wooden barrels and hand churned, the way they made it 125 years ago. The fruit mixed with cream is then poured into a copper canister which makes their recipes legendary and unique. The sixth generation of ice cream makers are at work now and no prizes for guessing their surname…Icecreamwala!
We enjoyed every lick of the ice cream and then Vicky said… Sir, Taj means the crown. Now that we have found the crown here, can the jewels be far away?
Vicky, don’t worry. I know where to find the most precious crown jewel of all…the Kohinoor. You can see Kohinoor in some time, just do not ask me any questions how, when and where.
Ok, Sir, you got me excited and I shall follow my leader to Land’s End.
We took another Kaali-peeli and took a turn to the left from the
imposing RBI Building at Ballard Estate, Fort, and got dropped opposite an old,
dilapidated building with a number of people hanging outside. The old rusty
board read, Britannia and Co, Exotic Parsi Iranian Restaurant. All boards
displayed ‘Cash Only’. Vicky, the foodie, couldn’t help laughing seeing this
iconic eatery but asked, how do you plan to find Kohinoor here, Sir?
He is there inside…come with me and I will show you. As we entered the eatery, we found a dog sleeping on one side of the cash counter and a cat on the other. An old man sat behind the desk and welcomed us as we took our seats. We found ourselves at a point where I felt that every person passing was trying to take a picture of us and so I would smile at them. Vicky shattered my dreams and told me that people were actually taking picture of the interesting rules of the restaurant that was hanging on the wall next to us…. No Talking, No Combing Hair, No Leg on Chair….
I asked the man serving…Boman Kohinoor Saab kahan hain?
He said, “Saab passed away in 2019. You have not been here for long or
else you would have known about it.”
I explained to Vicky, “Boman Rashid Kohinoor started Britannia in 1923.
He called himself India’s biggest fan of the Royal family of UK. He even met
Prince William and Kate Middleton when they visited India in 2016 and I have
seen their cardboard cut-outs kept in this restaurant when I had last visited.
Boman would walk around and make sure he would meet each and every customer who
came to the restaurant and take a feedback about the food and also recounted about
the traditional recipes served here.
Vivky smiled and said, “So now Boman Saab is entertaining Queen
Elizabeth up there in the clouds…how fascinating indeed!"
Not Boman Saab…Kohinoor, the Crown Jewel, himself.
We ordered the traditional Pallonji’s Raspberry soda and followed it up with
the lazeez Mutton Salli Boti (small mutton
balls with crispy potato slices finely cut) with chapati and then there was no way we would miss the Berry Good
Chicken Berry Pulao. This pulao is really very special for it is full of
barberries that are imported from Iran to retain their authenticity. The place
proudly adorns the flags of Iran and India, the place of origin of the
ancestors and the residency of the present owners. We rounded off this fine
food with the special caramel custard which is not too sweet or eggy and tastes
just right. Both of us burped as we cleaned up the desert and understood the
signal from within which shouted…bas kar…no
more please.
No matter how much we explore this city, it never fails to amaze us. The more we see, the more we fall in love and the more we want to see of Bom Bahai. Hasta Manana till we meet again.
Vicky & SS