Sunday, 17 September 2023
In My Anti-Hero Era
Sunday, 10 September 2023
Abode of the Gods
As we stood before the 100 feet seven-tiered Gopuram of the Shree Anantha Padmanabhaswamy Temple, we were simply spellbound by the innumerable sculptures made on it narrating the stories from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana on either side of it. Who were these unknown sculptors who were so familiar with the epics to have depicted them so beautifully with their chisels and hammers? Or did their inspiration, too, come from the Gods? Right on the top of Gopuram, built in the Pandyan style in the 16th century, is a boat or vanchi which gave the Kingdom of Travancore its ancient name of Vanchinad or the Land of the Boat. The seven identical kalashas are placed there. Right down the middle of the Gopuram are openings on every tier, all aligned in one straight line, through which the sun can be viewed two times a year- the equinoxes, when the sun rises exactly on the east and sets exactly on the west. What engineering precision! There are four main entrances to the temple situated in the four directions along with a private entrance for the royal family since Padmanabhaswamy is their tutelary deity. The ruler of Tranvancore, Raja Marthanda Varma, consecrated his kingdom to Shree Padmanabhaswamy in the mid-eighteenth century and became a ‘dasa’ or servant of the Kingdom of the Lord and his descendants are still the custodians of this temple. No wonder Thiruvanthapuram literally means the City of Lord Anantha.
The confluence of the Dravidian and the Chera style of architecture can be seen in this temple. As we made our way into the main corridor of the temple, we were struck by the artistic richness of the entrance and the cleanliness maintained everywhere. All along the rectangular corridor, running from the entrance to the main temple, there are carved monolithic pillars with sculptures of deities and each one is different from the other. Not only the deities but even the ornamental carvings on each of them are different. On looking up for more information I found that there are exactly 365 and one-quarter elaborately carved pillars in granite in this corridor. How scientific and exact could these artisans have been! The only carvings which are uniform on these pillars are the statues of the lamp bearers. Imagine being inside this temple on a night when all the diyas are lit like for the Lakshadeepam festival!
To deviate a little, we had been made aware of the dress code to be followed inside this temple before our visit- saris for women, dhoti or vesti for men as bottom wear with or without a shawl/angavastram for the top. However, we noticed that, apart from the priests and devotees in white dhotis, there were many able bodied men walking inside the corridors of the temple wearing dhotis clasped smartly with black belt and triangular khaki or blue angavastrams draped over their shoulders. It was only when they crossed us and we could see their backs that we noticed the walkie-talkies smartly tucked into their belts and Police written on the back of their angavastrams. Innovative Kerala Police!
As we were guided along, we began
our parikrama by visiting the temples
of Ganapati, Bhairava (Shiva), Shri Krishnaswamy (Thiruvambadi), an avatar of
Vishnu, who is seen here as the divine charioteer with a whip and a conch-shell,
and Narasimhan, half-man, half-lion avatar of the Lord. This temple is among
the 108 temples dedicated to Vishnu. Among many other temples in this complex
dedicated to different gods there is one in honour of Ved Vyas, the author of
the Mahabharata. There are two Dhwajastambhs
or flagstaffs – teak wood pillars covered with silver and gold- the silver one
in front of the Krishna temple and the gold in front of the main temple. Atop
the gold dhwajastambh is Garuda, the vahana or vehicle of Lord Vishnu.
Several ornately carved Mandapams,
musical pillars and mural paintings on the outer walls of the main temple will
leave all in awe of this artistic and architectural masterpiece.
As per legends the original
temple is more than five thousand years old and references to this temple have
been found in the Puranas, the Epics and Sangam literature. The present temple
that we see was built in the seventeenth century by the rulers of Tranvancore
and houses the principal deity of Lord Padmanabhaswamy or Lord Vishnu in
Ananthashayanam or sleeping posture on the serpent Adi Sesha. The Garbhagriha or the sanctum-sanctorum
houses this eighteen feet idol built from 12008 shaligrams brought from the river Gandaki in Nepal. Elephants
carrying them took more than three years to reach their destination. Apart from
the shaligrams, a special mixture of mud
and herbs collected from 108 sources called katu
sarkara yogam was plastered on the deity. The deity in entirety cannot be
seen from one door. From the side we entered, we first got to see the Lord’s feet
through the first door, then the torso through the second door from where we
could see Brahma on a lotus emanating from the Lord’s navel and, finally, the
face and crown with his right hand extended to settle on the Shiva Lingam.
Legend says that once Sage
Vilwamangalathu Swamiyar, who performed his duties at the Padmanabhaswamy
temple in Kasargod, scolded an orphan boy, who stayed with him and helped him
with the daily chores. The boy ran away
from him. On realizing that the boy was none other than the Lord himself, the
sage followed him through a cave to the shores of Thiruvanthapuram. There he saw
the boy disappearing into a tree which then fell and took the shape of Lord
Vishnu in Anathashayanam. The Lord then revealed himself in his 8-mile long
form sleeping on a thousand hooded cobra or Adi Shesha. The sage asked for
forgiveness and begged the Lord to condense his size so that he could see him.
Even though Vishnu reduced his size the sage could not see him fully through
the trees and saw only his face, stomach and feet. That is how the devotees in
this temple also see him.
Many of us have read about the
news of the unbelievable amount of wealth collected and stored over the
centuries in its many vaults which, by Court order, were opened in 2011. Some
of the vaults are opened from time to time for daily pujas and ceremonial
occasions but they say there are still many unopened vaults and ante-chambers.
Stories of superstitions or faith, associated with this centuries old temple,
abound but it is needless to dwell on them. So I would prefer to stick to my
own journey through the abodes of the Gods and great men as we made our way
from Kovalam to Kanyakumari. Green, blue and gold are the three colours one can
associate with the state of Kerala – the blue sea, the lush green mangroves,
banana orchards and the coconut trees which adorn its coastline and, of course,
its unforgettable golden beaches. Perhaps, nothing describes this land better
than the well-known and much adverstised tagline of Kerala Tourism-God’s Own
Country.
Kumari Amman Temple, one of the 108 Shakti Peethas, is one of the most sacred temples of the world. Mention of this temple can be found in the ancient Hindu scriptures, the epics and Sangam literature. Legend says that the demon King Banasura, with a boon from Brahma, became so powerful that he ousted Indra and had held all the Devas captives. He could be defeated by only a virgin girl. So the goddess Bhagavati took the form of a girl and arrived in Kanyakumari. But Shiva fell in love with Kumari and wanted to marry her. The wedding was to be at midnight. But Sage Narada was aware that only a virgin goddess could slay Banasura. When Lord Shiva left Suchindram for the wedding, Narada caused a rooster to crow. Shiva was misled to think it was dawn and the auspicious moment was gone. He went back to Suchindram and Kumari kept waiting. The Goddess remained unmarried and later put an end to Banasura’s romantic overtures by slaying him and releasing the Devas. The goddess later forgave the Banasura and blessed the waters of the holy confluence at Triveni. Having heard the many stories about the diamond on the Goddess’ nose, I felt blessed to have seen it with my own eyes.
Our last stop was Cape Comorin or the tip of the Indian peninsula, the meeting point of the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal with the Indian Ocean. What better sight from the Triveni Sangam than that of the sun rising in all its radiant splendor, despite the discernible monsoon clouds, scattering its first rays on the Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the gigantic statue of the much revered poet-philosopher saint of Tamil literature, Thiruvalluvar.
Where the earth and ocean meet,
And all
things seem only one
In the
universal Sun.- P.B.Shelley
DS
Sunday, 3 September 2023
A Tale of Two Bananas
We had just finished eating one of the heaviest meals when a booming voice from behind shouted out… That’s an insult! I will not tolerate it in my country.
I turned around
and saw a man who was heavily built with a thick drooping moustache and wore
clothes that you would expect in very ancient times. He carried an umbrella
made of coir and looked like having jumped out of the Ramlila enactments you
would see in rural India. But there was something in his shining eyes and deep
voice that could make anyone sit up and take notice of as someone special.
Sorry Sir. how
have I insulted you or anyone else?
You have not had
the drinks in the three glasses before you and more importantly not eaten the
two bananas. When you are having Sadhya,
you must clean off everything that is laid before you. Leaving anything
untouched is an insult to the Onam celebrations.
Sir, while I get your point, you must realise that there is a limit to what we can possibly eat in one go. For over an hour now, we have been eating one dish after another. After eating all, we have just folded the banana leaf and we will be taking the two bananas with us to eat later when hungry.
Can you show me
what all you have eaten? I need to check whether you are telling me the
truth or fibbing.
Why should we
have to prove anything to you? Who do you think you are?
Just then the
hotel chef came and with folded hands requested us to comply with the funny
man’s strange request.
I promise I
shall give you a complimentary meal if you do as the Lord says. Don’t question
him please.
Ok, Chef. Just
for your sake, I will take him through the meal we just had. Please take a seat
for it will take me some time to remember everything. Let me open up the folded
banana leaves that will still show you traces and remnants of the feast we just
had.
We entered the dining area from the lobby where a beautiful floral decoration was made to wish us Happy Onam.
The moment we sat down to enjoy the deep blue water of the infinity pool to our left and the dark waters of the Arabian Sea in front and light blue of the sky above, a young man wearing the traditional dhoti and top laid two fine banana leaves and put a bit of salt in one corner. He was followed by a couple of others who put eight varieties of pickles and pachadi (raita made with pineapple), all of different looks and taste- red, orange, pink, white, yellow. This was followed by quick bombardment of banana, pappadam, banana and jack fruit fries, jaggery and fried chillies neatly on one side of the leaf. On the other side came three varieties of vegetables. These were, avial (A mix of vegetables in a coconut and yogurt base), thorans (Stir-fried vegetables with coconut and spices) and erissery (a dish made with pumpkin, beans, and spices).
Then came the sumptuous helpings of rice with parippu curry, a thick dal with a wholesome topping of ghee. This was followed by another round of rice and sambar and pulissery, a tangy yogurt-based curry with vegetables curry. We had to almost fight off the servers from pouring any more helpings on our leaves.
Ok Sir, we will
now get you the sweets specially made by our chef for today.
Yes, please
bring them on. We Bongs love the sweets of all varieties.
No sooner had we
uttered the sentence came round one… payasam
of banana flowers which was followed by payasam
of jack fruit made in jaggery. As if this was not enough, they put a folded
yellow coloured sweet roti which looked more like pooranpoli we are used to at Mumbai. Another lad came in quick time
and poured palada payasam (made of
rice and milk) on the sweet roti.
How did it all taste? Asked the so-called Lord.
Each dish was
unique and tasty to the core…. I said.
The man patted
the chef on his back…Well done, my boy.
The chef stood
up and with folded hands he said… Sir, I only do ten percent of the work. rest
is your doing in making the food taste good. I try and put in love in
everything I make and then it is you who decides and makes sure the food is
good and enjoyable for all who eat it.
The man smiled
at the chef and nodded his head in appreciation.
We felt full to the brim by now and there was no place for anything when they put
these three steel glasses before us. One with warm red water, rasam in the second and butter milk in
the third. Chef, everything was good
about the food but we have not understood why such a combination of drinks are
served at the end of the meal.
These help in
digestion….said the chef.
But for us this
was a deadly concoction to end a super meal and after sipping a little, we
decided to call it a day and we neatly folded the banana leaf to say…..We are
done!
Ha ha ha… you
did good and since you are not from my country it is quite natural that you are
not used to drinking.
Yes Sir, we
heard that during this year’s celebrations the people of this land consumed so
much liquor that earned the government enough revenue to fund the next mission of
Chandrayaan 4.
All these fools
will go to pathalam soon.
Why pathalam Sir?
Yes, for those
who enjoy here will not do it there. They will face strict prohibition there
and I will make sure they do not find ways and means to procure them from
anywhere else. Our prohibition policy is strictly enforced, not like on earth
where bootlegging is in vogue.
Now that we have
had almost 25 to 30 dishes in the Sadhya meal, can we once again fold back the
banana leaves and go back to our rooms to rest?
Yes, you may go.
You have done well but do carry the two bananas and eat later during the day to
finish off the meal. Let me now go to the other tables to check how they have
fared.
Thanks, Sir, but
can we have a picture with you for our memories.
Yes, sure….and
we asked the Chef to take the picture.
And the man
moved on leaving us and Chef standing with our hands folded. We asked the
chef…who’s he?
The man represents the benevolent King Mahabali who once ruled the three worlds. He was an Asura but because of his good deeds and qualities, he became the ruler of both heaven and earth. The Devas or Gods were very upset and asked for Lord Vishnu’s help who acceded to their requests and manifested as Vamana, the dwarf. As Mahabali was performing rituals and giving away gifts, Vamana appeared and asked for land as much as could be measured in his three steps. The moment Mahabali agreed, Vamana grew in size and put one foot in heaven and the other on earth and asked the king where he could place his third step. The generous Mahabali offered his head for the third step. Vishnu was pleased with Mahabali and offered him a boon. Mahabali asked to be allowed to visit his people once every year. His wish was granted and on Onam day, it is said, Mahabali visits his people to wish them happiness.
I turned around
to take one more look at the Lord but could not see him anywhere. I gulped down
the liquids in the three glasses and put the two bananas in my pocket and went
to my room. At night, we ate the two fruits and wondered if it would be right to throw the skins of the sacred bananas in the bin under
the reading table or find another place appropriate.
We turned believers in God’s Own Country.
Happy Onam.
SS