Of Temples and Myths woven in Silk

All my life I knew Kanchipuram because of the famous silk sarees the women in my home would love to buy at Nalli’s and, secondly, for the attention the Sankaracharya of Kanchi Peeth would attract by his utterances from time to time. Then one day in the December of ‘25, we happened to take a day’s trip to this wonderful city and realised how little I knew.

There are two versions of the etymology of the word Kanchipuram. According to the first one, Kanchipuram is a Tamil name formed by combining two words, "kanchi" and "puram," together meaning "the city of kaanchi flowers". The second one is more fascinating. According to it, the Sanskrit the word is split into two: ka and anchi. Ka means Brahma, anchi means worship and puram means the place. Therefore, Kanchipuram stands for the place where Varadharaja Perumal or Vishnu was worshipped by Brahma.

Kanchipuram is often referred to as the "City of Thousand Temples" dating back to the 2nd century BCE. The city served as the historic capital for the Pallavas (6th–9th centuries) and later as an important city for the Cholas, the Pandyas, the Vijayanagara and the Carnatic kingdoms before becoming a part of the British India. The Hindus, both Vaishanavites and Saivites, regard Kanchipuram to be one of the seven holiest cities in India, the Sapta Puri. The Garuda Purana says that these seven cities, including Kanchipuram are providers of moksha, that is, where a human being can achieve liberation from the cycle of birth, death and rebirth.

Our first port of call was the famous Kamakshi Amman Temple. It is said that the temple may have been founded in the 5th-8th century CE by the Pallava kings , further developed by the Cholas in the 14th century and by the  Vijayanagara dynasty in the 18^th CE.

This temple is also known as Kamakoti Nayaki Kovil and is dedicated to the goddess Kamakshi, one of the highest forms of Parvati. It is also one of the Shakti Peetham where Sati’s navel is said to have fallen. The goddess gets its name from Kama, that means Love and Akshi means Eyes. Put simply, it is the Goddess with Loving Eyes. Unlike other temples where the deity is in a standing or walking posture, Kamakshi is seated in a padmasana and is flanked by the trinity of Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. We had an excellent darshan of the Goddess and walked around the temple complex at leisure.

Just outside the Kamakshi Amman Temple is the Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham, also called the Sri Kanchi Matham. According to the Kanchi Matha's tradition, Adi Shankaracharya (509 BCE to 477 BCE) founded the Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham in 482 BCE. There is a temple inside the matha which is said to be the final resting place of Adi Shankaracharya. We were not able to get the darshan of the current head of the Kanchi Matha as he was travelling outside. The place is very serene and walking around here is easy as compared to the push and pull you often encounter in the temple complexes.

We then went to the Ekambareswarar or Ekambaranathar Temple which is dedicated to Shiva. You can see the gopuram which is 59 metres (194 ft) tall, from a long way off. The gopurams in Kanchipuram were in cream or white shades as compared to the colourful ones we saw at Madurai. However, the sculptures on them telling stories from epics and Hindu mythologies were common. The temple is one of five called Pancha Bhoota Sthalams, which represent the manifestation of the five prime elements of nature and Shiva is worshipped as Ekambareswarar representing the earth.

The temple dates back to at least 600 CE with significant contributions from Pallava, Chola, and Vijayanagara rulers. Legend has it that once Parvati, the consort of Shiva, wanted to expiate herself from sin by doing penance under a mango tree near Vegavati River. In order to test her devotion Shiva sent fire on her. Parvati prayed to the god Vishnu. Vishnu brought the Moon whose rays cooled down the tree and Parvati. Shiva again sent the River Ganga to disrupt Parvati's penance. Parvati convinced Ganga that since they were sisters, she should not harm her. Parvati worshipped a Shiva Linga out of sand to please Shiva. Ultimately, Shiva appeared before her as Ekambareswarar or "Lord of Mango Tree".

Sahasra Lingam-1008 lingams

The sanctum sanctorum contains the lingam along with the image of Shiva and Parvati sitting together. There are granite images of the 63 Nayanmars around the first precinct. The temple's inner most precinct is decorated with Shivalingams, one of which is a Sahasra Lingam with 1,008 Siva lingams sculpted on it.

We then moved to the Sri Vardharaja Perumal Kovil which is a temple dedicated to Vishnu. The name Vardharaja means bestower of boons and Vardharaja Swami bestows peace, prosperity, knowledge, health and wealth to those who seek. This temple is one of the biggest temple complexes in Tamil Nadu. There are 32 shrines, 19 vimanams (towers), 389 pillared halls and sacred tanks some of which located outside the complex. Apart from the main stone idol, the temple has the wooden image of Varadharajaswamy made of Atthi or the fig tree and preserved under water in a secret chamber. It is brought out for worship once every 40 years.

There are many legends associated with the origin of the temple. According one, Brahma, the Hindu god of creation, separated with his wife Saraswati over a misunderstanding. He performed the ashvamedha sacrifice, seeking boons from Vishnu. Vishnu, pleased by the devotion, came out from under the earth as a boar and reunited Saraswati with Brahma. Another legend states that the disciples of the sage Gautama were cursed to become lizards. They resided in the temple, and were relieved of the curse by the divine grace of Vishnu. There is a panel in the temple where the two golden lizards are depicted in the roof of the temple. This was the only place where we had to stand long in a queue and standing before us was a lady whose son was undergoing cricket trials for Tamil Nadu under 19. Having had a good darshan and been able to touch the lizards on the roof, hopefully the mother’s prayers would have had a positive impact on the child’s sporting career.

Our final visit was to the oldest temple in the city, the Kailasanathar Temple or the "Lord of Kailasa" Temple. The temple construction was done around 700 CE and the Pallava kings Narasimhavarman II and his son, Mahendravarman III, are credited for the same. This is a UNESCO monument and preserved very well.

The Kailasanathar Temple in Kancheepuram is embodiment of magnificence in stone. It is the finest examples of classical Dravidian architecture; the temple emanates unmatched charm and elegance. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple is square-planned. There is a grand entrance hall, a splendid gathering hall, the sanctum sanctorum which is topped with a four-storey Vimana. There are nine shrines around the main sanctum, seven outside and two inside, with each shrine depicting different forms of Shiva. There are 58 of these smaller shrines. The innermost pathway of the temple circles the idol of Kailasanathar or Lord Shiva and signifies the entrance and exit of a person from paradise.

Having done the spiritual part of the day trip and a sumptuous lunch, we now turned our attention to the Kanjivaram sarees.  We wanted to see a loom where the famous Kanjivaram saree was being crafted and were fortunate to see one. Kanchipuram sarees, originating from Tamil Nadu over 400 years ago, are renowned for their durable mulberry silk and heavy gold zari, often featuring temple border designs. The silk trade in Kanchipuram began when King Rajaraja Chola I (985–1014) invited weavers from Saurashtra, Gujarat to migrate to Kanchi.

Navagunjara Motif consisting of 9 animals, birds and human parts

According to legend, Sage Markanda was a master weaver who was favoured by the gods and blessed with the ability to weave the most exquisite and luxurious silk sarees. As the story goes, when Sage Markanda was wandering through the forests of Kanchipuram, he saw the goddess Parvati weaving a silk saree. He was struck by the beauty and intricacy of her weaving and asked her to teach him the art of silk weaving. Parvati agreed to teach Sage Markanda the art of silk weaving, and he spent many years learning from her. With her guidance, he became a master weaver, and his silk sarees were highly sought after by royalty and nobility throughout South India. Legend has it that Sage Markanda wove a silk saree for the god Vishnu, which was made of pure gold and silk. This saree was so exquisite that it was believed to be able to withstand the test of time, and it became a symbol of wealth and prosperity in South India.

I do not know much about the royalty and the nobility of the old but we ensured we devoted enough time to visit a couple of shops selling the sarees, understanding the beauty of the wraps and were simply amazed at the intricacies of the craftsmanship. Each piece that was brought down from the racks and unfolded was unique and the salesman had a story to tell about the distinct border, pallu and the motifs woven into each of them. Wish we had more time at hand and more money to buy than what we finally ended up… handful for sure.

Why go anywhere else on the planet when you have so much more to see in Incredible India!

SS 

NB. Source regarding the myths, legends and history for this blog have been taken from various articles in the internet. Apology for any mistake that may have crept in inadvertently. The pictures used are our own.

It’s My Life

Saturday 10^th January 2026. Flat 902 Jeevan Society

Baby, come quickly. Dadi wants to talk to you. Come na…how many times do I have to call you.

Don’t bother, Sunil. The kid is sleeping, don’t disturb her. I will make her speak to Mom on FaceTime some other day. You do the talking today.

Mumma, how are you doing?

You have put up cameras in the house that you can see me almost everywhere except in the bathroom. You know everything about me; my every movement you can see and hear every word I speak. Why can’t I have some privacy?

Mumma, you live alone in a mad city like Mumbai and we live thousands of miles away in London. Our work and life are both here but we want to take care of you always. What if you were to fall sick or need any help? You won’t be able to call the doctor or ambulance. We can do it from here and also rush home in case of any need. This technology gives us much peace of mind.

I hope you have not put them in the bathroom as well?

Come on, Mumma. Don’t be angry. Shruti and I are always worried about you and this is the least we can do by keeping vigil and overseeing your safety and security.

Do as you please. I am fine and can manage my things well alone.

Mumma, who is this person who keeps coming every day to your place?

Oh, that’s Murthy, our new neighbour who moved in recently. I invite him to have the evening tea with me, so he comes.

But why every day?

Arrey, he is a good old man, lives all by himself. He is a very interesting man and I quite like his company.

Mom, what’s wrong with you? Can’t you see him bringing gifts every other day? Don’t you find it strange?

Those are cookies that he keeps buying for himself. Since I make the tea for him, he brings the cookies and sometimes other small eats here to share and enjoy together.

He is there with you alone for hours. Why can’t he just have his tea and leave? And why do you make the finest Darjeeling tea for him and often serve fries additionally. What is going on, Mom? You have to understand that we live in a society and there is a time and an age for everything. No one will approve of this relationship…

Relationship! You are accusing me of having a relationship with a neighbour?  This is so shameful to hear it from my son at this age. I have been living here alone for the last eight years and during this time there have been so many neighbours who came and went but none really connected as a friend. Today, for the first time, I am able to communicate with a neighbour who seems intelligent and cheerful and look what I have to listen to? Sunil, have I ever complained of my loneliness? You think by coming once a year, sending me money every month is enough for me to tide over my loneliness. I long for company. Why should my talking to this man be looked upon by my own son in such a lowly manner?

No Mumma, you are getting me all wrong. I do realise that you are all alone and we have begged you so many times to come and live with us but you have always been so adamant and refused persistently. And you know the world you live in where tongues wag at the smallest of pretext. I do not want people to cast any aspersions on you. I was just trying to be extra protective of you.

Beta, your father built this house with all his life’s savings. He lives on here with me in in every brick in the walls. I feel his presence every night when I switch off the lights. There is no way I am going anywhere.  I just don’t feel like talking on this issue any more. Good night, Sunil.

Flashback: October 2025. Flat 901, Jeevan Society

Mr. Murthy had moved into the present flat at Vasai a couple of months ago after the demise of his wife. On the day that he arrived here, he saw a lady in the adjoining flat talking to a food delivery man. As he shut his door, he casually wished her good morning and she immediately reciprocated. In the evening, before leaving for his walk in the garden, Murthy rang the bell next door.

Hello, I am Ram Murthy, your new neighbour. Would you mind keeping one spare key at your place, just in case I forget mine someday and get locked out?

Hello, I am Sujata Gokhale. Yes, of course, I can keep your keys at my place. Why don’t you come inside?

Sorry, not today. After my walk I have to pick up lots of stuff from the market.

Ok, so why don’t you come after you have finished your shopping. We could have tea.

It will be late by the time I come home. But I will take your offer and drop in tomorrow evening, if that is ok with you.

Sure, anytime. I am usually home.

Thank you for your generous offer. Bye for now.

That is how they met and in the days that followed, the two neighbours connected well together. Murthy would find some time almost every day and drop in. Sujata was happy to have him over, and being contemporaries, they had many things in common and their conversation was always interesting and engrossing.

Murthy lived a simple disciplined life with his pension money of which a large part went in paying off the monthly rent. He loved company and you would often find him chatting with the security guards or the gardener. Quite unlike his soft demeanour, he drove a heavy duty 350cc Royal Enfield motorbike that made quite a noise.  He always had a smile on his face. Murthy had one failing, a sweet tooth, and he would often pick up cookies, sweets and small bites during his regular market visits. These he would share with his housemaid and with Sujata who initially resisted accepting them. She later realised that the neighbour was a good man and the small things he got were nothing more than his way of reciprocating for the hospitality she would show.

As their friendship grew stronger, they both looked forward to their meetings and conversations which ranged from books, politics, food to travel, places visited and not visited. They would not agree over some topics but the tone was always friendly. It seemed as though no one wanted to upset the other. Both felt happy in each other’s company.

Fast Forward: 11^th January 2026

It was a Sunday early morning and Murthy had just woken up when the door-bell rang.

Who can it be now? It is too early for the cleaner or the driver. Must be some idiot asking for donation for one festival or another.

He walked up and opened the door. He could not believe his eyes…it was Sujata standing there, instead of the usual smile, she had a stern look on her face.

Hello…what a pleasant surprise. My Sunday just got better with your coming. Why don’t you come in?

Ram, here are your keys…she pushed her hand with the keys dangling towards the shell-shocked man. I do not wish to keep them anymore.

What happened Sujata? Are you going somewhere for long?

No, I am not going anywhere. It is just that I do not want to keep the keys anymore. And let us not continue with our daily meetings anymore.

Before Murthy could speak anything, Sujata turned around and went into her flat. He kept looking at her door for long and then gently closed his own door and slumped on his easy chair. He kept wondering what had happened? Why had she suddenly behaved in that manner? What wrong had he done? Had he said anything bad to her or hurt her? He was enjoying her company and no more. Was she doubting his intentions by any chance? Oh God!

He swayed on the easy chair for almost the whole of the day, thinking for the plausible reason for this sudden turnaround. Why would she return the keys and ask him not to visit her again? He wished she had told him her reasons and heard him out as well. It was fine with him if they no longer remained friends and did not have tea together anymore but casting an aspersion like that was completely wrong and uncalled for.  

The ninth floor of the building that Sunday remained completely quiet and motionless. The doors at both ends remained shut. Both avoided each other for next two weeks.

Sunday 25^th January 2026: Flat 902

Sujata knew the pain she had caused her neighbour. Everyday she felt like speaking to him and apologising but could not muster up courage to do so. She had stopped taking Sunil’s calls and would only talk to her daughter-in-law and the grandchild. She thought over the matter for days together and then one day said to herself…Enough is enough! It is my life and I will live it my way.

She went to Flat 901 and rang the doorbell. There was no response from inside. She got worried and rang the bell frantically. This time the door opened slightly and before Murthy could say anything, she said, I need to talk to you and please don’t say no. Murthy let her in and Sujata saw that the living room was in quite a mess. The well organised man had not bothered to clean up the place for long and all the furniture was dusty. She sat down on the sofa and started to speak while the man slouched on the easy chair with his head bent down, refusing to look at Sujata.

I am sorry Ram for behaving so badly with you for no fault of yours… She went on to narrate her conversation with her son and tried explaining her awkward reaction thereafter. She was choking while talking and kept adding sorry after every couple of words.

Murthy now lifted his eyes and looked at Sujata, put his palms together asking her to stop saying anything more and said… You mean I can once again start coming to your place for tea and chatting?

Sujata smiled and nodded her head. Yes…Yes! She wondered how easily the man had forgiven her and agreed to return to good old days.

She said… I need your help for two things. Firstly, call an electrician immediately and bring down all the CCTV cameras in my house. I do not wish to be pried upon even by my children. I know what is right from wrong and good from bad.

And what is your next ask?

Sunil’s father also had a motorbike when we first met in our college days. He loved driving the machine and drove it fast. I loved sitting behind him and enjoyed the cool breeze kissing me as we zoomed ahead with my hair flying. I want you to take me out for drives once in a while. I want to live my life again on my terms.

Are you sure of this for I will be more than happy to take you out on drives? It will be your life, your terms but, with all due respect, I will insist on your wearing the helmet. Safety first.

Yes! Sure…very sure. Not just any drive… long drives if you are up for it. How about driving to Mahabaleshwar tomorrow?

SS