ITALIAN DIARIES PART II- THE FLOWER OF ITALY

Hello there, I see you have come back for the Part 2...and if you’ve not, then mentioning it should make you inquisitive to read Part 1!!

It is very difficult to see everything that Italy has to offer in one trip and so our Mother and Daughter had selected the Holy Trinity of Rome-Florence-Venice for their first trip to this beautiful country. Eurail is the best way to travel as it takes you across the countryside with its picturesque landscape. The view from the window is exactly like a painting we used to make when in school- hills with the Sun peeping out, trees on rolling green fields and colourful houses with their sloping roofs and chimneys, square windows and  rectangular doors with  gardens in full bloom in Spring! Once you reach Florence, stroll your suitcases down the cobbled streets for walking is the only way to get around in this boot shaped country!

Firenze

“I would imagine in Venice...create in Rome...and live in Florence.” I found this scrawled in the travel diary of our friends here. This is the magic of Florence that made it a punishment for Michelangelo to leave this city when called by the Pope to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Rome and later again for the Last Judgement...that made Dante look to it as his Paradise lost on being exiled...that made da Vinci immortalise its Arno as the most looked upon river in the world by painting it as the background for his Mona Lisa!

While Rome is like a lasagna, with layers and layers of history, Florence is like a tic-tac-toe grid with the rows and columns being the roads and the X and O being things to see with a church here and a museum there.  It owes much of its richness to the Medici (pronounced as Madici) family who were not only patrons of art but also were the benefactors of Michelangelo and supporters of Galileo when the world called him a heretic. The last of the Medici,Anna Maria Luisa willed all the personal property of the Medici family to the Tuscan state provided that none of the treasures of Firenze would be taken out of the geographical boundaries of the city.

The must sees in Florence-

The Duomo- Somehow the reason a Centaur was called Firenze becomes crystal clear when you see the Duomo. Just like one is confused whether to call a centaur a horse or man, you do not know whether to gush about the beauty and intricate work on marble of the church or to marvel at the architectural genius of Brunelleschi’s dome...it is the perfect combination of science and religion. The Cathedral of Santa Maria de Fiore or Flower has one of the most extravagant facades made from Carrara,(white), Prato (green), Siena (red) marble. Inside the church there are glass paintings by Donatello and a painting of Dante explaining his Divine Comedy standing at the gates of Florence by Michelino. The huge dome, designed by Brunelleschi was constructed with the workers working on a floating platform. Miraculously only one worker died during this construction, that too from an underlying illness. The interior of the Dome is adorned by the Last Judgement, a fresco by Vasari and Zuccari. The Duomo is best described as “a mountain of marble topped by a giant ruby.”  And here’s the last trivia, Florence is derived from the word Fiore/ Flower so literally this Church is dedicated to Saint Mary of Florence, truly the Flower of Italy.

There is also Giotto’s bell-tower that you can climb up and the museum situated behind the Cathedral. The Baptistery just opposite the Cathedral is octagonal in shape. Ghiberti’s gilded east door of the baptistery has been rightly described by Michelangelo as the Gates of Paradise with its ten panels depicting scenes from the Old Testament. While the real doors are in the museum, the replica is placed in the Baptistery, after a flood damaged the original ones.

                                                

Uffizi Gallery- Earlier an office complex it is now a museum housing some of the greatest sculptures and paintings from Raphael, Caravaggio and Titian to Botticelli, da Vinci and Michelangelo. In the world there are only 1 and ½ paintings of Michelangelo, one of which, The Holy Family is in this Gallery. The rich colours are dazzling and so is the frame that Michelangelo designed himself. There is Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation and another painting, Baptism of Christ that he made with his master Verrocchio where he happens to actually ‘paint the very air of Florence.’ But the star in Uffizi is undoubtedly Botticelli. While Michelangelo’s figures are muscular and strong, Botticelli brings out the grace and gentleness of a Woman...whether it is his Birth of Venus, where Venus is depicted as the most precious pearl of the ocean or Spring taking the place of winter with Zephyrus chasing the nymph Chloris who then transforms into Flora and the three Graces dancing in the Garden of Venus with Mercury and the blindfolded Cupid. Don’t miss the breathtaking view of the River Arno from the Uffizi.

David-“I saw the angel in the marble and carved until I set him free,” said Michelangelo.

He was given life by a 26 year old magician from a block of Carrara marble on which two sculptors had worked previously and had rejected. He was built to be placed on top of the Duomo along with other statues. He was scrutinized by a team of seven great artists that included the likes of Leonardo da Vinci and Filippino Lippi. Being as magnificent as he was, he was placed in Piazza della Signoria outside the Palazzo Vecchio. His charm drew so many admirers, one of them even damaging his toe with a hammer, that he was then taken in to be housed in the Galleria dell’Accademia. He stands tall, his gaze thoughtful, his poise determined and yet oblivious of his own aura. He is David...need I say any more?

Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio- This is something that is very difficult to imagine, you have to see it to believe it. Here you have numerous sculptures, of Hercules, Neptune, Perseus with the head of Medussa, Rape of the Sabines, all in the middle of the street. Aside from three sculptures, including the replica of David, all are original pieces of work. It is an open air museum, to be admired by all, tourists, a local strolling casually or by Nature herself, the Sun, the Moon and the Stars!

River Arno and the Ponte Vecchio- The Ponte Vecchio was earlier the market for butchers but was replaced by gold jewellers because of the foul odour the Medicis had to suffer as they passed through the Vasari Corridor above the Ponte Vecchio. Aah, the Vasari Corridor...the passage designed by Vasari connecting the Palazzo Vecchio to the Pitti Palace through the Uffizi. Today it houses the self portraits of various artists.

Leather Market- The famous leather market of Florence is in a Loggia or a building with a roof and columns but no walls. You cannot go back from Florence without a sexy leather jacket...yeh toh banta hai!!! Be sure to rub the snout of Porcellino, the bronze piglet outside the leather market and promise that you will return!

Pisa

A trip to one of the wonders of the world is a given. What makes this trip so enjoyable is the ride through the Tuscan countryside, the clear blue sky smiling down on you, the vineyards waving at you cheerfully and the scenery calling out to you to stay with them and write as you munch cantuccini biscotti!

The Miracle Square at Pisa is nothing short of a miracle! There is a cupcake shaped Baptistery, a Cathedral dating back to the 10^th century with the chandelier that made Galileo formulate the principles of the pendulum and the Bell Tower, popularly known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa. To be honest, it is weird! When you enter the Miracle Square, it peeks out mischievously from behind the Church. It entices you to take pictures with it forming illusions that you are either pushing it or holding it as it falls. And as you start climbing it, you realise that it is no illusion at all!!! It is badly tilted, weighing down on the soft soil beneath it! The guide there explained to our duo that while all structures in this square are slightly tilted because the soil is yielding from the beginning when a river flowed underneath it, the reason for the gross inclination of the Tower is that it is built from the heavy Carrara marble and it has no windows making it all the more heavier...guess the architect forgot why the avian skeleton favours it to fly in his flight to the top!

Well folks, so much for today. I’ll leave you, only to be back next Sunday.

Till then, go out...explore...travel...live...the planet is not so lonely after all!

 MS

ITALIAN DIARIES PART I- VENI, VIDI, VICI

“I have travelled a lot...I haven’t saved much...But I know the day I stop travelling I will die,” said Antonio, our 66 year old guide at Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

After cancelling the trip once last year and thinking a lot about what people had said (“It’s a place of thieves” and “You’ll be targeted from the Rome airport itself, make sure you don’t let your bags out of your sight”), mother and daughter decided to fulfil their dream of visiting Italy, the birth place of Renaissance.   It was their first visit to Europe and visiting Rome, Florence and Venice was definitely somewhere at the top of their yet unwritten bucket list...so naturally they were excited!!! They read up all that they could about the places they were to visit and drew up their own itinerary making sure they gave ample time to each place. But books and internet can only give you a rough idea of what you can expect for what they saw was far more magnificent than what either of them could have imagined.

What do you write about a place that has a monument at every corner, the largest open air museum and canals forming the vessels to and from the heart of the city? It’s definitely a mammoth task and so I decided to include some interesting and unique (or as the Florentines like to say “curiosities”) things about Italy which I read in the diary of these two travellers...enjoy!

The Caput Mundi

Rome is a city where every street (‘Via’) or square (‘Piazza’) is like a page torn out of a history book. Monuments seem to sprout out of the ground just like the gladiators came out of the crypts below the arena in front of the wide-eyed crowd. It’s an amalgamation of the ancient and the modern...and you will be left to wonder whether the old gave way to the new or the new bowed out of the way for the old.  For instance, in Piazza Navona you have Bernini’s masterpiece, the Fountain of the Four Rivers along with the Fountain of Neptune and the Fountain of Moro...all three keeping you enthralled and mesmerised. But just as you tear your eyes (and camera) away, and turn your head, you find classy restaurants all along the piazza! Neptune and his two horses, the wild and the calm at Trevi look across the road at the uber chic mannequins of United Colours of Benetton. You come out of the metro station and almost bang into the Colosseum! As our guide at the Borghese Museum remarked, “It takes ages to build subways and metro lines in Rome because they start digging and then hit upon a historically and archeologically important ‘thing’ and have to stop the work, change their route and start digging elsewhere!”

It is a walled city, the Aurelian walls still form an imposing boundary. The people here are helpful and those who are not, it is because they are not fluent with English and not because they are mean. A Buongiorno here and a Grazie there is always helpful! For the freshers, every Pizzeria is not the same!!! Having discovered this the hard way by losing their way at 11.30 in the night, taking the wrong turn on seeing a board glowing green with the words ‘Pizzeria’, the duo specifically asked me to mention this! Also, Google maps are indeed extremely helpful because you do tend to lose your way. You may have lost your way and be running late for your meeting time of the tour and so you will end up crossing the street blindly in a hurry...but do not fear, for the Italians will stop their cars and let you pass...unlike Mr. Statham on his Italian mission! But this should not be an incentive to turn as blind as a bat and as deaf as a post on the roads! Apart from the cherubic babies, you will not find a single plump Italian. Every person walking by you looks like Al Pacino or Monica Bellucci. Anybody obese has to be a tourist!

Rome is a food lover’s delight! There are pizzerias, trattorias, osterias, gelaterias and ristorantes! Sit on the assorted chairs of the trattorias, with colourful tablecloths and lovely flowers in vases on each table in the warm Italian spring sun and listen to the gentle tunes of a nearby musician strumming his guitar and singing a merry melody as you sip your cappuccino or choco latte or take a bite of your pizza, savouring the individual taste of each ingredient or get lost in the taste of a freshly made tiramisu...aah, heaven! There are no regular, medium or large sizes in their pizzas, it is one standard (bigger than our large!) size and it comes as one round dish, no slices cut! But who cares, just dig in!!! It will be like no other pizza that you have ever tasted, their mozzarella being completely different from ours...and in a good way! You can start with the Antipasta, then go onto the first course that includes pasta and spaghetti and if you are still hungry then you can have the main course of fish and meat. And then comes the best part...Dolce! If you have a sweet tooth then you’ve found your tooth fairy!!! From scones, croissants, tarts and pies at breakfast to tiramisu and capresse!!! And how can I forget the gelatos! The softer and creamier your gelato, the better it is. For those of you addicted to the Amazon app...you can always say ‘Aur Dikhao’ for the flavours here! There are the usual ones like chocolate, vanilla, strawberry and mango and then there are exotic flavours like extra dark chocolate, tiramisu, mint, mixed fruit, pineapple and hazelnut!

When in Rome, be like the Romans. Fill water from any water fountain that you come across, it’s all potable water!

The Guides are excellent. Our duo in Italy had guides as young as 25 to as old as 66 years old. All of them speak impeccable English, have been students of Art, Architecture, or History. They are extremely pleasant and never hurry at any place but let you take pictures to your heart’s content and are fiercely proud to be either Romans or Florentines or Pisans or Venetians!

The must sees in Rome-

The Colosseum- Yes, we have all seen ‘Gladiator’, again and again and again! But the real structure, like its name is colossal to be ever captured on screen no matter how big it is! You have to see it to believe it. Built by Vespasian in place of Nero’s Domus Aurea, it was built to gain the trust and support of the people again, games organised for them, free for all. And in these fights, among gladiators and between animals and gladiators who was the winner? Well the Emperor of course! But contrary to popular belief, the gladiators were hardly ever killed in the battle...for they were the heroes, people loved them! If this doesn’t make your jaw drop, I do believe that Rome isn’t your cup of tea (or cappuccino)!

The Roman Forum- Don’t miss this, situated next to the Colosseum. Witness the ancient civilisation now in ruins- enter through the arch of Constantine to the ground where Caesar built his basilica and where the senators debated about matters of the state. Pay a visit to Caesar’s tomb next to the temple of Antoninus and Faustina. Cross the temple of Saturn and Concord and come to the home of the vestal virgins. The arch of Septimius Severus bears testimony to Damnation of Memory, the name of one brother erased by the other! Climb up the Palatine Hill and stand where Augustus once built his palace to show that he was a descendant of Romulus, the founder of Rome.

The Basilica of San Giovanni- This is one of the four patriarchal churches of Rome, the other three being St Mary Maggiore, St Peter’s Basilica at Vatican and St. Paul’s Basilica outside the city walls. Each of these churches have the Holy Door through which a Christian must pass once in his life time. The gates are opened once every 25 years. 2015 is a special year when the Pope has announced that the gates will be opened in December this year...so start making your plans! This, however is the Mother of all Churches in the world being the seat of the Bishop of Rome, who also happens to be the Pope himself. Inside the church the Naive has the sculptures of all twelve apostles, above them, scenes from the old and new testament and right on top, frescoes of the Prophets. It holds the relics of the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul. The influence of both the Baroque and the Renaissance styles can be seen here. Opposite this church is the Baptistery that houses the Scala Santa, the twenty eight steps climbed by Jesus with the Cross in the palace of Pilates in Jerusalem. People climb up these steps on their knees. For those of you who cannot manage, don’t worry there is a separate set of steps that you can climb to go to Sancta Sanctorum.

The Borghese Gallery- Situated quite inside the Villa Borghese that lies atop the Spanish Steps, this Gallery houses the collections of Scipione Borghese and his successors. It is extremely difficult to put into words the beauty of the paintings or sculptures. While Caravaggio paints a dark background with the Sick Bacchus and his self portrait as the head of Goliath in the hand of Young David, Raphael paints a picture of chastity in the Lady with the Unicorn. I cannot put life into words for I am not Bernini who infuses life into the Carrara marble with David in motion, his face drawn up in concentration as he is throwing the slingshot at the giant Goliath. Or in Rape of Persephone, Pluto’s finger’s pressing into the soft flesh of Persephone as he takes her away to the Underground, the tear trickling down her face. Pluto’s three headed dog stands nearby, its fur a stark contrast to the smooth skin of a woman, yet both built from rock! Or in Apollo and Daphne, watch Daphne transform into a tree in front of your eyes while Apollo watches helplessly. Do not miss the view of St Peter’s Basilica from here!

 

The Pantheon- Truly a Temple built in honour of all the gods, it is now a church. Marvel at the architecture of the largest non reinforced dome in the world as time casts its light and shadow through the oculus. Here lies Raphael Santi, the man who during his short stay of 37 years on this Earth, created eternal masterpieces to become immortal. His brilliance is beautifully described in the epitaph on his tomb, “Here lies Raphael, by whom Nature feared to be outdone while he lived, and when he died, feared that she herself would die.”

Piazza Navona- Bernini’s tribute to the four rivers of the world will leave you mesmerised. There are artists painting, musicians singing for you, gladiators drawing their swords for a picture with you and even sadhus floating in air!

Trevi Fountain- In spite of being under renovation, you cannot help but feel small in front of the majestic sculpture of the God of Sea. Throw a coin and if it goes in at the first try, you will surely come back to Rome...and if it doesn’t, I bet you would still come back to this eternal city!

The Vatican, Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica- The smallest city in the world welcomes you with open arms, quite literally as you enter Bernini’s St Peter’s Square with its 284 columns. You can also enter through the Vatican museum Gates like our Mother-Daughter did, early morning, under the watchful gaze of Michelangelo and Raphael and have breakfast in the Pine Cone Courtyard. Try booking this trip for it is a marvellous experience. I will not attempt describing the museums, the gallery of maps, the gallery of Tapestry, Raphael’s stanza because it is 7km and if you are willing to sit through 7 pages of this blog then let me know, I shall write about them next time. Visit the Sistine Chapel where while your head is raised to look at Michelangelo’s frescoes, your jaw will drop as you see God’s creation of this Earth...you can choose your God or accept Him as Michelangelo, as I did. The Last Judgement is ominous, the wall having been plastered by God in a way that it seems to incline towards you and you feel that even you are being judged to go to heaven or to rot in hell. This is where the conclave is held every time a Pope is elected. St. Peter’s Basilica is as close to Paradise as you can expect to be. Built to fit in two football stadiums, each letter on the wall is seven feet tall. The main altar built by Bernini is as high as a ten storey building. And every painting that you see on the wall...is in fact not a painting at all...it’s a mosaic!!! It is hard to believe that Michelangelo created the Pieta when he was only 24! In fact, even back then he had to inscribe his name on the sculpture so that people would believe that it was his creation. Oh, and there is also a chapel here where you can get married...for only about 50 thousand Euros!!! Climb up some 550 odd steps to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica and  you’ll get a view that will take your breath away. The Castle of Angels is nearby, previously the Mausoleum of Hadrian, then the fortress to protect the Popes and now a national museum.

Rome was not built in a day and nor will you be able to visit it. Do give 4-5 days to be able to see the city properly. You can book all tickets online. Keep a map. The Metro here is excellent and a great way to commute. And for the more adventurous ones...

Let Angels Guide You on Your Lofty Quest...

I’ll be back to take you across the Tuscan countryside and the Grand Canal...Next Sunday, same time, same blog.

Ciao!!!

MS

There Goes My Baby...

Thank you Shoojit da for such a wonderful film. It made me think… for your ending is my beginning. My story is all about Piku, the Beautiful Bong from CR Park, Rana the owner of the taxi service and Rana’s alter ego….nothing but the inner voice of Rana who keeps talking to the physical Rana. Throughout the story the alter ego talks in italics. The story starts as soon as the little badminton game between Rana and Piku gets over and it’s time for the taxiwala to return home.

As Rana opens the door and sits at the steering wheel, his head turns towards Banerjee Villa and he sees Piku waving at him. Rana reciprocates and drives off. No sooner he moves out a little distance, a smile comes on to the face of Rana….

Thinking of her?

No way

Stop lying. I can see it in your eyes.

I am wearing dark shades, so how can you see my eyes?

I can see your heart and your soul…nothing’s hidden from me.

Ok then I was smiling and also thinking of her…so what?

Why don’t you tell?

Tell her what?

Rana stop fibbing. You like her so why not tell her?

Don’t be a fool. Do you know she’s a well read Bong and me just a UP ka Bhaiya, a Taxiwala…a Nobody.

So you admit you love her?

Ok…let’s accept for the moment I do feel for her. Telling her this is not possible.

Why?

Why? Because she will get upset. She trusts me as a friend!

Friend!! Phew…Ha Ha…

Stop laughing…it’s serious…

Yeah…that’s what I am saying…get serious if it is serious, if you’re serious…

I am afraid of losing her for my foolishness. She will think I am no better than all other men she has met.

You anyway don’t have her even now, so what are you going to lose? Chal aagey badh…

No, no… you don’t understand…I am happy to know her. I am happy just to drive her once in a while. I can live with that but can’t think of a situation when she doesn’t want to meet me…stop your nonsense.

Listen Buddy, it is one thing just to know her, just to sip a cuppa tea with her…what next. She’s good looking, right?

Yes she is…very beautiful.

She’s a good girl…I mean someone with whom you gel well?

Yes she is…very good. I like everything about her.

Is she the girl you would want by your side always?

Yes…why not?

You keep thinking of her often?

Yes I do…all the time. Can’t sleep without dreaming of her. See her everywhere, everytime…but no I can’t do it…just leave me alone.

I can’t go because you want me here. I am saying what you want to say. I am repeating what you’ve been rehearsing every night while twisting and turning in your bed. Wake up Rana. Go get her.

Screech…the car stops as Rana reaches home. Despite protests from his mother and sister, Rana excuses himself from dinner and goes to his room and locks it up. Changes into his kurta pyjama and takes out his cigarette and lighter from his jacket…something all these days he had been avoiding from Piku’s knowledge. He wanted to showcase himself as everything good, someone whom she could trust, someone in whom she would reach out for any help she might need. Needless to mention our man from UP never slept that night.

Sharp at 6 am, Rana took a good bath, shaved and wore clean clothes.

If there is any day, it has to be today.

I am gonna say it to Piku today.

I have confidence and confidence in me as Julie Andrews in Sound of Music would have said it.

By 7.30am he parked his car at a Gurudwara at Greater Kailash….500 metres from B Block CR Park. At 8 am he gets the call he’s been waiting for…”Sir, woh CR Park wali Madam ko office ke liye gadi chahiye”…someone from his office informed Rana. Rana slid into the seat, put on the air conditioner, checked the air purifier….mmmmmm perfect…hope she likes it…

Piku comes out of the house with a couple of files in her hand and swiftly opens the back door and sits down. 

Driver Chalo…she says and looks up.

Rana, you…what about your regular drivers?

All were busy today, so I came.

Jhooth…Ek dum jhooth…total lie Rana. You only told all the drivers that no one but you will take the C.R. Park wali Madam ki duty….anyway hope you say it to her now. Chal aagey badh…

So now you will expect me to sit in the front again? Of course I know you are the owner of the taxi service and not a driver….ok I will come in front but after you’ve moved out of this Bong colony….everyone will be peeping from behind the curtains to see what I am doing, now that Baba is no more.

Rana smiled and moved on or should I say drove forward.

The moment the car reached the ring road, Rana stopped the car and Piku stepped onto the front seat. Rana smiled again…so did Piku.

Rana could feel her reciprocating… the chemistry seemed just right. I think it’s time…

Cough…cough…Rana was trying to clear his throat.

Nothing’s wrong you fool. Your throat is fine. You coward,  making excuses…just say it to her now.

Ok I will, just give me a moment will you, said Rana.

What did you say just now, Rana…who were you talking to? asked Piku.

Sorry…I was thinking about something else and must have said…what did I say?

Couldn’t hear it fully but you said, Ok I will.

Forget it. It’s nothing. My mother asked me to get some vegetables while returning so must have spoken to her in my sub conscious.

As Rana prepared the well rehearsed speech of his lifetime, Piku’s phone started ringing.

Syed, I am on my way, just a little late….no no there’s been no accident.  All is fine.

The talk went on till the car reached Piku’s office gate while fidgety Rana kept looking at the road and the passenger next to him waiting for an opportune time.

Piku unfastened the seat belt and told Rana that she will not need the car in the evening as she was going to her Mashi’s (Aunt’s) place and the guy you all saw in the movie with long hair and who was someone big in the US of A would pick her up from the office.

Craaaashhhh…although the car was sound, Rana felt a big tree falling on him… completely depressed he sat stunned in the car.

Hello…Rana…get up…it’s not the end of the world. You will meet her tomorrow again. You can tell her up and straight. Don’t wait for her to come out to the car tomorrow morning, just walk into the house, tell her what you feel. All will be fine. It is just a matter of one day.

But how will I survive this one long day and the night that follows? Forget it, she’s not meant for me. The signs are ominous. I am a fool and need to stay away. Stop troubling me. Stop putting me in trouble.

Me? And putting you in trouble? One day you can’t live without her and you’re blaming me for pushing you to speak to her?

Rana and his alter ego kept speaking, kept arguing, kept disagreeing…most importantly kept awake till the sun arose one more time. As usual the story unfolded with Rana waiting outside for Piku. His sleepy eyes he hid behind the shades but somehow managed a smile as Piku walked up. Today Piku showed bravery. She went straight to the front seat and sat down.

Rana was happy…delighted should I say.

Piku too looked happy at her valour.

The car moved on. Rana did not want to waste any time.

Piku, I want to tell you something.

Rana, I too want to say something very interesting. Can’t wait to tell you.

Rana looked lost. A good soul he always was…achcha tum bolo pehley (ok you tell first).

As the radio played old English Rock music, something Piku loved to hear and something Rana had also taken a fancy for, the lady started talking.

Rana, you know last night at Mashi’s place, Saurabh…her nephew from the US of A offered me a job in the best architectural company in New York. Wow…isn’t it wonderful! I always wanted to go to the US but because of Baba stayed behind. Now there is nothing to keep me back from my dream. I can’t tell you how happy I am, Rana.

Rana looked stunned and fell silent.

Kya Rana, you have nothing to say? It is such an important thing in my life…I’m goin’ to NY and you’re looking as if something bad has happened.

Congratulations Piku…I was just taken aback by the suddenness. I am so happy for you.

Jhooth…ekdum jhooth…total lie once again…tell her don’t go. Don’t go for your sake. Stay back…Please.

I am going to put in my resignation today. From tomorrow I will not be going to the office as I will be doing all the paper work. So won’t need the car anymore.

Crying now Mr. Rana? This is the result of total constipation….yes constipation… same as what Piku’s father suffered from. Remember the picture you drew for Bhaskor Banerjee…here, let me do the same for you. The message from your heart moves to the mouth but the signal from your brain stops you from uttering those dreaded three words….do you get the picture? All along you wanted to say it to her but could never bring it out…that is Total Constipation. Ab roowo…now cry…

The radio was playing an old Smokie song-

Oh, I don't know why she's leaving,

Or where she's gonna go,

I guess she's got her reasons,

But I just don't want to know,

Cause for twenty-four years

I've been living next door to Alice.

Twenty-four years just waiting for a chance,

To tell her how I'm feeling, maybe get a second glance,

Now I've got to get used to not living next door to Alice...

What did you want to say, Rana.

I also wanted to tell you that I will be winding up the taxi business soon. I am also looking for an opportunity to go back to the Gulf.

Jhooth…pura jhooth…total lie once again. You bloody coward making up stories. Don’t have the courage to tell her you like her, you want her to stay with you and here you are saying you are also going away to making her feel better…as if she was feeling sorry for you…

Anyway Piku just let me know if you need any help. At least tell me when you are leaving; I’ll drive you to the airport one last time.

Many days passed. Piku did not call. Rana lay depressed, neither going to office nor coming out of the house.  One evening the phone rang….the name on the screen was ‘Piku calling’…

Rana, I am flying out tomorrow night. It will be nice to meet you tomorrow evening.

I’ll be there at 9 pm, don’t worry.

Rana rang the door bell next evening. Piku opened the door, as usual with a wide smile. She really looked happy and excited. Everything was packed. Budhan picked up the bags and put them in the car. Lots of Mashis and Pishis had come to bid her good bye.

Rana opened the door one last time and it was the front door of course. Piku settled down. She had tears in her eyes…sad she was for leaving her home for so many years…Rana pulled out a tissue and handed it to her. And the car moved on.

Rana switched on a CD he had kept ready for the occasion…it was an old ghazal he wanted her to hear…what he wanted to say but wasn’t getting to do it..

Tumko apni kasam jaan-e-jaan 

Baat itni meri maan lo 

Aaj jaane ki zid na karo 

Aaj jaane ki zid na karo 

Haaye mar jaayenge hum

Aisi baatein kiya na karo 

Aaj jaane ki zid na karo 

Aaj jaane ki zid na karo 

Rana that was Baba’s favorite ghazal. He loved old songs and ghazals…oh thank you for playing it today.

Tell her you fool that what the song says, don’t go is what you want to tell her. She might still change her decision. Turn the car around, hold her hand and say it Man. This is your do or die moment, Rana, just do it!

On the way she talked of the journey to Kolkata and all the good times they had together. The car reached international airport. Rana quickly got a trolley for Piku.

Thank you Rana. You’ve been such a good friend to me all this while. Don’t know how to thank you. She walked up to him and gave him a big tight hug. She once more had tears in her eyes.

She passed the entry gate and waved Rana good bye. Rana started the car again and the radio was playing the Queen song…

But life still goes on

I can’t get used to living, living without, living without,

Living without you by my side

I don’t want to live alone, hey

God knows, got to make it on my own

So baby can’t you see

I’ve got to break free.

Of Saabs and Memsaab

Year: 1969.

Place: New Delhi

                In a small government quarter in Nanak Pura, three people were conversing quietly. The house was so small that you could hear everything from anywhere. “We are doomed…he’s gone off with all our life’s savings…we will never be able to complete the construction ever….,” said my sobbing mother. My father, as usual, never said much but the glum and gloomy look in his eyes said it all.  The third fellow was a huge Sardarji in uniform who was trying to understand the gravity of the situation and said, “Bangali tha kya….strange because bangalis are generally cowards and will never do a thing like this.” “He has not only cheated us, but many more people whose houses he was constructing”, said my father.

                My parents had, during partition, come over from East Pakistan (Bangladesh) to India in search of a better life. Pandit Nehru allotted them a piece of land in Delhi and named it EPDP (East Pakistan Displaced Persons) Colony which is now the famous Chittaranjan Park…Chit Park for many, now made famous by Shoojit Sircar in ‘Vicky Donor’ and ‘ Piku’. The land was given on a 99 years lease to about 2500 Bongs who were, mostly, working in government jobs. Both my parents applied and got two plots but my father did not accept his as he felt the larger plot he got, based on his salary, would be difficult to construct on with the small savings they had. They went on to accept Ma’s smaller plot.

                With all their life’s savings and a bit of borrowings from friends the construction started. One of my parents would go to the site alternately to see their house getting constructed. The foundation was dug and slowly the walls came up. The construction was being done by our architect-cum-builder Mr. Sen….no relation to us. The man was well known and many people trusted him. One fine day the construction stopped….the labourers got jittery after a couple of days and started complaining of lack of materials and non-payment of their wages. Mr. Sen was nowhere to be found. All the lost souls got together and, after much search, came to know that he had vanished to Calcutta with all the monies.

               Twelve thousand rupees is what my parents lost. It may sound silly but 45 years ago when my mother’s pay was about Rs 250 per month, it was more than a king’s ransom.  My mother was often found crying….the one litre milk in our house got reduced to half but we were too young to understand as our milk glasses were always full. Later she told us that she would add equal amount of water. The Sunday mutton became from a weekly to a fortnightly affair. My father, who could not eat a meal without fish that he so fondly got from INA Market, now got it once a week. New shoes were bought only when the earlier ones had been repaired many times over and the cobbler finally gave up on it. To us kids at home, we never understood anything other than someone called 420 had cheated us but taught us to live with little less. Ma had done away with the domestic help and would do everything from cleaning utensils to clothes to cleaning the house…cooking, that she so dearly loved, anyway continued to be part of her chores.

               After nearly six months, news came in from what I would now term as AAP (Aggrieved  Association from ex-Pakistan)… “ He is back in Delhi and is staying at Greater Kailash”.

               That’s when the huge uniform-wala Sardarji said, “We will go tomorrow to his house and make him pay up. I will get my jeep and we will all go together in the evening”. “Theek hai Commander Saab” my mother said, thanking the man who was an acquaintance from the Defence Ministry where she worked. The word jeep was manna to my ears. No sooner had the man departed I told my parents, “Aami o jaabo (I will go too)!” No matter how much my parents protested, I would not budge an inch. Next day after returning from school I changed into my favourite policeman’s uniform with a cap and a smart baton in hand. So many times my friends called my name to go out and play, but I did not leave my station even for a moment that day. As evening dawned, my parents returned from work. After a while, I saw an army jeep coming to a halt outside our house. Commander Saab came out and walked to our house and I quickly made my way to the back seat of the jeep. I was feeling like a big hero sitting there with my friends watching me with envy. After a while the army vehicle moved….

               This was like an Inspector Eagle story coming true….maybe the Army Commander was the Inspector and I was Havaldaar Naik…tan tan tarannnn!!!! With the address in hand the jeep reached the big bungalow at GK which happened to be Mr. Sen’s sister’s house. The guard outside saw the army vehicle and quickly opened the gate and saluted the army man. Whether I reciprocated the salute or not I do not remember but surely this was getting better and better. We were ushered into a huge room beautifully decorated with photographs, paintings and books all over. The servant got us some cold water and sweets. While my parents asked the servant to call the 420, I did not waste any time in eating the sweets laid before me and then went on to hog from my father’s plate as well when my mother gave me a stern look that forced me to sink into the super soft sofa.

                After a while came in Mr. Sen. He looked a decent guy…in his 50s with specs…looked every inch a ‘bhadralok’ you see at bong weddings and Durga Puja in crisp starched dhoti-panjabi. He sat down on the sofa set and started sipping tea. Commander Saab raised his voice, “When are you returning the money? Don’t ask me to use force and take you to the thana. These are my friends and I cannot see them suffer because of your charsobeesi…!” I was admiring Inspector Eagle’s style and his baritone voice and then looked at Mr. Sen who said that he did not have any money to pay. He had been declared bankrupt. The one sided talk went on for a few hours but the man just did not budge an inch, no matter how much my mother pleaded with folded hands and told him of our sorry state of affairs, or how much Commander Saab thundered. All this while, I was enjoying the mishti on the table as others were too busy in their heated conversation. As luck would have it, the sweets finished and so did the talks. We went back to the jeep and I slept off missing all the talks that would have happened on the return journey.

My parents accepted the fact that the money was gone. We all reconciled to a life that was not so easy. The worry was how to complete the house, where to get the money from. My mother took out her ornaments, not that she had too many, and sold them one by one. She asked one of her office colleagues, whom we knew as Chaudhury Saab (everyone in government office was a Saab in Delhi), who knew something about construction to help and he did. In the winter of ‘71, we moved from Nanak Pura to our CR Park house to oversee the finishing. As luck would have it, it was also the time of the Indo-Pak War when ,during the nights ,we had to shut out the lights whenever the siren would sound. We were living in constant fear that Pakistani fighter jets would soon bomb Delhi and blow off the roof we had got with so much pain and sacrifice from over our heads.

When the glass name plate was getting painted, normally the name of person in whose name the lease deed was registered would appear. My mother, although proud at being the Memsaab and landlady of the house, said the name plate should just read ‘Sens, K-2082, Chittaranjan Park, New Delhi’.

On this Mother’s Day how I wish I could thank her for all she did; how I wish I could say sorry to her for all the wrong things I did and said to her…..just love your mother no matter how old she gets, how much of a bother she is to you, for after the days are gone, there is only regret that remains. The sacrifice, the pain your mother goes through in her lifetime and the care she takes is difficult to pen or express. How often she would overlook your faults and be your best defender whenever anyone said things that were bad about you. Oh how I wish I could get some time to tell this to you Ma.

SS

WINDS OF CHANGE

Twenty five years ago, armed with year-old jobs in the same public sector company, the two of us decided to take the plunge- literally. Families agreed and without much ado the nuptials were solemnized. Neither of us had much leave accrued and therefore no plans for honeymoon were made…no leave and no money. Today’s kids will look baffled…and their mamas and papas will faint… not going to LA or Paris or Venice not even to Maldives or Thailand? There weren’t too much expectations, no conditions were laid…perhaps that’s what kept us going.

In those days weddings were a simple affair –there was definitely a variance in the degree of celebrations- but more or less everybody got married in a similar way. The terrace or the courtyard of the house was usually the venue or at the most a big house or hall rented for a day or two. Resorts and 5-stars were a far cry. Bengali grooms still arrived in ambassador cars wearing dhoti kurtas (even if it was for the first time) and not sherwanis or designer pull-up red and black dhotis. Brides were decked up by ‘didis’ and ‘boudis’ (sisters and sisters-in-law) with traditional ‘chandan’, ‘alta’ and ‘mukut’ since salons and beauty parlours had not made their way in every nook and corner. Red and maroon was the traditional bridal wear with a dash of golden zari -Bengali brides had still not been initiated into zardozi lehengas and intricate mehendis. All the ladies had ‘mogras’ on their braids and buns and not pink or golden streaks! The floral decorations were with ‘rajnigandhas’, and ‘juhis’(their fragrance could really induce love..believe me) not marigolds or white orchids dipped in blue and purple dyes …but nothing can be more hideous than artificial flowers strung on strands of golden and pink nets!!!

Everyone sat down to eat and Bengali cuisine was served till nearly every stomach exploded. Mouthwatering recipes of “Bhetki machher paturi’,  ‘potoler dolma’, ‘ galda chingri’r malaikari’ were highlights of the menu. Today it’s very different – you literally do a tightrope walk balancing your saree, shawl, clutch and a plateful of goodies as you saunter from the Thai to the Mexican and Mughlai counters and later crib about how you had to give the Chaats a miss because of your new Bomkai. But what I really miss is the father or the uncle of the bride inviting you to eat, the aunts of the house coming and asking how the preparations have turned out or ‘jamaibabus’ and ‘dadas’(brothers- in- law and brothers) of the bride or groom insisting that you have more. It is so very impersonal nowadays- you look at the watch, check the queue and decide it is the best time to load your plate.

Mashis and Pishis (belonging to the species ‘aunts’) start arriving a couple of days before the big day in their brand new starched sarees with red and gold borders. Those living outside the city landed up a week before. They stayed back too…so that the girl’s mother never felt lonely! There was a lot of     ‘PNPC’ (Bong abbreviation for gossiping and backbiting) behind closed doors but it was fun…today everyone is so indifferent…everyone is so busy…they just visit the venue for a couple of hours. No one today makes the “ananda  nadu” (a special laddoo made from rice flour, coconut and ‘gur’ specifically for weddings and thread ceremonies- do we even know the recipe?). ‘Bhien’ for mishtis are obsolete. In fact by the time we got married mithaiwalas or ‘moiras’ actually setting up their tools and wares to prepare  ‘sandesh’, ‘rosogolla’ and ‘gulab jamuns’ on the rooftops or courtyards of the wedding venues had already become unheard of..… but I do miss those garma garam ‘darbesh’ or the ‘kachagollas’ that were served straight from the kadais!

But it is the wedding cards that have taken a completely new look. In our time, you saw variations in the quality of paper, which could range from handmade to ordinary paper or in the font and the colour scheme, or at the most in the choice of the designs-whether one wanted to go in for the traditional butterflies and paisleys or may be a more artistic or offbeat motif. I am completely bowled over by the designer cards we get these days…some are as big as resume folders, others open like mithai boxes. We received one which actually had a hook and a frame and you could put it up on the wall! One looked like a Moghul tapestry while another carried the photos of the bride and groom and the ‘sowbhagyawati’ and ‘cheeranjivi’ even decided to print their qualifications. Not only are they getting bigger and brighter and more and more garish you actually have to hunt for the venue and the date  of the wedding in the midst of all the shayari  and details of the business houses owned by the bride and the groom’s families. But the best invitation was a Whatsaap  message that said, “My brother is getting married today, please come for the reception at Hotel Sea Rock at 7.00 pm”. Nice concept!

“The old order changeth, yielding place to new……”

When your wedding turns silver and so does your hair, if you decide not to endorse L’oreal or Garnier, I guess you are allowed the luxury of pure nostalgia ….sorry if I have hurt anyone in the process.

DS