Sunday 13 May 2018

Taj of the Raj


As we two tourists entered the building we were warmly received by an Englishman which was pretty much surprising to us.

"Hello Gentlemen…Welcome to the museum. I am your guide Stevens. I will take you around the museum and also the whole building which is a masterpiece and is second only to the famed Taj Mahal when it comes to the most photographed monuments. Yes this is the Victoria Terminus Building built in 1887 at a cost of about Rs 16.14 lacs to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria . Oops…it is no longer so called. In 1996 the local chaps pulled down the statue of Queen Victoria and even I don’t know where they took her and stored her away as they named the building Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) till someone even more learned told these manoos that they must add an M to the abbreviation to give due respect to the great king so CST has now become CSMT or Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. A part of the building is now a museum and it also houses the Head Quarters of Central Railway.
   

Queen Victoria Stood beneath the clock under the royal umbrella but where is she today, no one knows, not even the RTI applications gets any response to this historical question.


The Entrance Door made with finest Burma Teak and brass hinges

Manash and I were happy to be in company of a man who was driven by passion and knew every bit of history and smaller stories about the building and the railways.


Logo of GIPR and the Loco on the museum door glass

The Great Indian Peninsular Railways operated its first train journey was on 16th April 1853 from Bori Bandar to Thane, with 14 bogies and 400 people on board. It is at the same place that the VT station was finally built. The first three engines were aptly named after the Indian history in chronological order- Sindh- Sultan- Sahib.

The Steam Engine Model


The Central Dome from Inside…Ground to ceiling 145 ft and just two floors in the building. Today you would have built 8-10 floors
   

Down from Up…Cantilever Staircase….as much you see outside is there inside the walls!!


Awe inspiring interior


Exquisitely carved animal motifs everywhere...look carefully at the motifs for their detailing


Langur ke pass Angur 


Glass Paintings…look carefully there’s a creeper at the bottom which is joining the Railways to the Imperial Logo and the Elephant representing India


The Dining Hall which is still used on special occasions with original marble, woodwork and…


The Chandelier..it still lights up even after a century


The Star Chamber is where even today passengers buy local tickets but never raise their eyes to the wonderful star studded ceiling on top


Not Hogwarts but our own VT and the gargoyle used to drain out rain water


Every wall, every inch is filled with art of the highest level


The Statue of Progress on top with a wheel and a flamed torch representing progress


The architecture is wonderful fusion- here you can see the Italian Gothic style at the bottom with Islamic style in the centre and the English curves at the top. A lot of art and architecture here was done by the students of Sir JJ School of Art.


CSMT- A  UNESCO Heritage Monument

As we descended the staircase for one last time, we saw a poster of a man who looked very familiar. We read the same aloud:


“Frederick William Stevens was born in Bath, England on November 11, 1847. He became an engineer in the Indian Public Works Department in 1867. After a year in Pune, he was transferred to Bombay in the office of the Architect to the Government of India. In 1877 his services were loaned to the Great Indian Peninsula Railway Company for the design of the Victoria Terminus….”

Manash and I looked at the picture once again and then at each other…we turned around to take another look at Stevens and he was gone. We looked around and then finally went to the sleepy Railway Protection Force person at the main entrance, “Have you seen any gora Englishman around?” The cop looked at us in amusement as if he knew what had happened to us like many tourists before us…….


Exhausted after the ghostly walk, we went to eat at a nearby joint called Pancham Puriwala and ordered Masala Puri with Batata Bhaji and Mango Lassi…we saw on the menu that this place was built in 1848….we looked at the person serving us and wondered if he was Pancham himself…


This photo shoot was made possible with the help of my dear friend Murali and Manash who took these pictures from all angles..,literally…

Manash & SS

PS. You can follow the Lens Man on Instagram #photowalkwithmanash



22 comments:

  1. Lovely Sibesh, even though a railwayman, got to learn so much from these. Will remember to look at the ceiling and the stars , the next time around.

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  2. Heart touching down memory lane...

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  3. Wow, this post had the best of both wprlds. Manash's lovely captures with his lens and your magical words lighting up the photos even more. Thanks for taking us on a walk through the paths of history of this beautiful monument that is yet another example of how we don't know the treasures were have in our possession.

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  4. Superbly written Sibesh Sir.... Gonna remember your ghostly walk, the next time I visit CST.
    Classic photography by Manash as well..

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  5. WOW. Extremely well written.
    Presents VT to the commoners in a different light.
    Millions pass through this piece of history but never hold a moment to delve in its beauty.
    Excellent photography.
    Will sure lure All readers to rush to VT and look at it from a different angle.

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  6. Sibs, you took me down childhood memory lane when I was here on school excursion...
    Your presentation will not only refresh old memories, but will enthuse readers to visit VT and admire its forgotten richness.

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  7. So true. So many times we pass through monuments big or small but never pause to look and know the history.
    Thanks for reminding to turn back down the l memory lane of history.

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  8. Except for the langur engraves, this structure could be passed of any other European marvel. We pass through so many times admiring it's glory in day and night, but never thought of such beautiful hidden history inside.. Waiting for your next treasure hunt..

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  9. Sir, Outstanding information with beautiful photogrphy. We really don't see this architecture and fine carving in our busy schedule. Very important information which will really help everyone to revisit this monument in next visit.

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  10. Walk down history lane

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  11. Thank You Sir Sibesh for giving me this opportunity. I will never forget our walk with Mr Steven. One of the most memorable walk of my life , thank you once again my Guruji

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  12. Great artistic way of representing the famous building. Thank you sir

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  13. What a description of building about whom we never bothered to know the history. This presentation has to be unique as it coming by two unique masters of taking picture and writing......

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  14. Well expressed using words and pictures 👍

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  15. Beautiful Sibeshda..

    in fact the main building always fascinated me and Titli and we always missed taking the photographs as it was impoosible to capture the magnanimous architecture with the small mobile camera
    Your friend has fulfilled our long cherished dream with the beautiful photographs

    And your writing is as wonderfully vivid as ever

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  16. Wonderful peace written on a building that we see nearly everyday with no idea of how amazing this building is. This piece came from our batch common WhatsApp group. You certainly are one popular writer from our ilk.

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  17. The ghost thing, does it really happen so with most tourists?
    Very well described Sir. Good photography Manash.

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  18. First of all Congratulations Manash for being written about you by our living legend Sir Sibesh. As usual well described Sir. HAts off to your thoughts.

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  19. Wow! Very well written Sibesh. Accompanied with beautiful clicks from Manash I could clearly visualize the scenes.
    Thanks for sharing this post. I did not know about this museum.
    Hope to meet Mr Stevens soon ;-)
    Mudrika

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  20. Sibesh, I can see that you have drafted this blog very diligently. There aren't many wasted words and the interest of the reader is maintained uniformly from the start to the end. Excellent photos too. I'd have preferred better resolution but, I can understand there were bandwidth and weight considerations. Overall, highly enjoyable. Look forward to more blogs from you.

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  21. Thank you for writing about this amazing structure!

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