Sunday 9 June 2024

Going Down the Travelled Road

“Often a star
was waiting for you to notice it. A wave rolled toward you
out of the distant path, or as you walked
under an open window, a violin
yielded itself to your hearing. All this was mission.”
- Rainer Maria Rilke                                                                                                          

Doors and windows hold a special fascination for me. I think, at first glance, like its inhabitants they too lend a city, a town or a home its character. Just imagine stepping into this concrete jungle we call Mumbai and all you can see around you is a sea of towering 4D-rectangles whose sides are etched with endless smaller rectangles, the innumerable rows and columns of windows. A mosaic in geometric shapes, lit or unlit, depending upon the time of the day. Unplanned, uncouth, unstoppable- devoid of any beauty or architectural planning- they seem to be just springing up and growing by the day.

Somehow, I always feel that windows or doors can say a lot about the place, the home or the person who lives there. In Mumbai, the most precious commodity is space and that kind of justifies the uses to which a window is put to in this city- to dry clothes, to store odds and ends, to nurture plants, to dry pickles and papads, and even extend and convert them into puja niches or study spaces. Or, for some lucky ones, to just enjoy the sea-view or the rains!

We have always heard the saying that when one door closes, another opens. But, as Alexander Graham Bell put it, “We often look so long and so regretfully upon the closed door that we do not see the one which has opened for us.”

An open door can stand for invitation, welcome, opportunity, a reason to explore or simply a sign of carelessness. Similarly, a closed door can stand for closure, seclusion, privacy, mystery, departure, safety or can be a sign to stay away.

A window can be our link with the outside world; it lets in the sun and shuts out the storm. It is our corner where we can sit, relax, introspect, dream or just watch the day go by. It is our source of life as it brings in the fresh air, sustains us and our plants, invigorates our minds, gives wings to our imagination, be our means of communication, lends the room its character, gives the room its view.

As Ingmar Berman put it, “I’m very, very lazy. I like to sit in a chair and look out the window and do nothing.”

I like doing the same too but, for today, let me just step out of my favourite corner by the window and do a visual tour of some other doors and windows, some well-known and some lesser known, that I have come across during my travels to other towns.

 Epitome of Simplicity: A door in Hridaykunj, Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi’s home in Sabarmati Ashram from 1918-1930. It was from here that the famous Dandi March began on 12th March 1930.


In Memoriam: A small window on the landing platform from where steps descend through five storeys to a step-well or vav in Adalaj, near Ahmedabad. This step well was built by Ruda, wife of Vaghela chief Virasimha, in memory of her husband.

Nakashi : Engraving on a niche at the Jama Masjid, Ahmedabad . This yellow sandstone mosque was built in 1424 during the reign of Ahmed Shah I.








The Prisoner’s View: The Bridge of Sighs connected the dungeons with the trial room in the Doge’s Palace, Venice. As the convicts were taken across the enclosed limestone bridge this was their last view of Venice through the two small rectangular windows with stone grilles. Lord Byron made it famous in the lines, “I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs; a palace and a prison on each hand.”

O my Luve’s like a red, red rose: The Great West Window in St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh,is dedicated to Robert Burns, Scotland’s greatest poet. In keeping with the thematic content of Burns’ poetry, the lower panels are in vivid green to depict the natural world, the middle panels with human figures depict human unity and the top portion depicts a sun with a heart like love blossoming into a rose.


I am the Gate: Porta Sancta or the Holy door, St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican. The brass panels, made by Vico Consorti, replaced the original wooden ones in 1949. This door is opened by the Pope in the beginning of the Holy Year, once in 25 years. It was last opened to the pilgrims in the year 2000. It represents Jesus, the Good Shepherd. It is also known as the Door of the Great Pardon.


The Gates of Paradise: This ten panelled gilded bronze door, sculpted by Lorenzo Ghiberti in mid-15th century, depicting scenes from the Old Testament is one of the three doors to the octagonal Baptistery of St. John or San Giovanni, located opposite the Duomo in Florence. Now the original pair of doors, post restoration, is displayed in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and a replica adorns the east entrance to the baptistery.







Welcome to the Abode of God: Sculptures of Ganga and Yamuna on either side along with dwarpalas at the doorjamb of the entrance to the remains of a 6th-7th century AD Shiva temple at Malhar, Chhattisgarh and also a 11th century AD Vishnu temple at Janjgir, Chhattisgarh.

Home Sweet Home: A beautifully decorated and bright entrance to a house on a street in Edinburgh.

Jewel in the Crown: Standing atop a volcanic rock and dominating the city’s skyline is the Edinburgh Castle which has a long history during which it has served as a fortress, a royal residence, a military garrison, a royal treasury and a prison. At its entrance, two of Scotland’s mighty heroes, William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, stand guard. It houses one of the oldest buildings of Britain, Saint Margaret’s Chapel, and the Crown Jewels of Scotland.

The Great Wall of India: Kumbhalgarh, a 15th century fort built by Rana Kumbha of Mewar, has the second longest perimeter wall of 36 km, after the Great Wall of China, which incidentally is 21,196 km (honestly, no comparison). The architectural credit goes to Mandan. The fort is situated on the Aravalli range at a height of 3600 ft near Udaipur, Rajasthan.It houses many Hindu and Jain temples apart from the royal palaces. It is also the birthplace of Maharana Pratap. The fort has seven fortified gates with names as varied as Aerat Pol, Ram Pol, Hanuman Pol, Halla Pol, Vijay Pol. The main entrance is Ram Pol, and what strikes the visitors is that it is in the shape of the gigantic feet of an elephant.

Hey, how old are you? Inside the Westminster Abbey, in a vestibule leading to the Chapter House, is a small wooden door which has been scientifically dated to about 1050 AD. This is the oldest door in Britain. It was probably a part of the original church of King Edward who died in 1066 AD (canonized by the Pope as St. Edward the Confessor in 1161) and later reduced in size and re-used in the present Abbey.



















The Kaleidoscope: Nestled among the lush green forests in the Aravalli range, on the eastern bank of  Lake Pichola, is the Udaipur Palace, a symbol of power and pride for the Mewar dynasty. The palace was started in the mid-16th century under Udai Singh II when they shifted their capital from Chittorgarh to Udaipur. The beauty of this palace is breath-taking and each mahal has its distinct style and décor. But what caught my attention were the doors and windows in it. They come in so many shapes, colours and sizes that you are left completely dazzled.



The dwarf’s door: An interesting feature is the size of the doors inside the Udaipur palace.You have to bend low to enter. Why would the mighty rulers of Mewar choose to make them so small and narrow? Narrow passages, winding staircases with small entry and exit doors would slow down the enemies allowing those inside the palace to get time to fight back.

My favourite : While walking on the streets of Rome, I loved this window and so clicked it!


Welcome to the Vatican Museum: As you approach the entrance door to the Vatican Museum and you look up, who are they looking at you from above the arch? They are none other than Michelangelo and Raphael sitting beside the coat of arms of Pope Pius XI, who had commissioned the structure on formation of the State of Vatican in 1930s.They epitomize Renaissance sculpture and painting as they sit there with their tools of art.


Is that Diagon Alley?  Victoria Street is a picturesque, winding, cobblestone lane that connects the Grassmarket with Lawnmarket in the Old Town of Edinburgh. Its steep slope and a graceful curve adds to its beauty. The street is lined with the old stone buildings with their brightly coloured facades and glass paneled doors and windows. They house shops selling interesting artefacts from food, wine to magic props and souvenirs. This street is supposed to be the inspiration for J.K.Rowling’s Diagon Alley, the fictional shopping area for the wizards in the Harry Potter series.


The
Lost Abbey: As you step out of the Palace of Holyroodhouse to explore the gardens of the royal residence, you cannot miss the ruins of an Abbey (Holy +rood meaning Holy+ Cross) built in the 12th century and home to the royals for many centuries. Its vaults still house the remains of many a king and queen. The skeletal frame of this once magnificent structure still holds the ground, not ready to let go of its once renowned grandeur. The body may have long gone but the soul still remains as we look up at the empty outlines of the abbey’s magnificent doors and windows.

DS

 

 

 







12 comments:

  1. El Classico

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  2. Such a beautiful compilation of doors, their script and location. Must have inspired the Collage house in Belapur.

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  3. Loved this piece...doors windows and corridors have always fascinated me and your article sooo beautifully articulates their charm.. awesome!!

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  4. Only you Shibhu, could make this so carried an interesting. What a lovely piece with the most classical verses and lines to embellish the beautiful art!

    Let me add some famous doors and windows from the indic books.

    The doorjambs in the south in old homes are always very short.. Not to decelerate enemy advance, but to show humility while entering or exiting. Thus thyagaraja sang his famous lines "hechariga ga ra ra hey ramachandra...." Cautioning Rama to enter with care as Rama was aajaanubahu..a tall strapping warrior entering thyagayya's humble South Indian abode!

    And then there are doors that tell you which lineage you belong to. The chettiars have the most inspiring woodwork doors which all the upper middle class and the rich like to emulate even in their modern apartments by having heavy ornate Doorways. And then there are doors to the puja room, always with slots for decorating with bells that tinkle when you open and shut at the end of day to day namaskaram or goodnight to the lord.

    Don't miss the steel rods of windows with typical green paint that marks old houses with Madras tiles and roofs.

    And then we have 40-60 foot temple doors in the south. These have a smaller door built in. The small door is opened to allow the priest to go in first or leave last, while the main doors known as nadavasal tare opened with special levers announce that the temple is open for worship.

    And then most temples have secret doors from the garbhagriha allowing an exit for the kings in times of danger, through impossible tunnels labrynths

    Then the secret doors with combination levers to show women folk to leave for their private bathing spaces.

    And then the agrahara homes with windows close to the ceiling in the first level which are always open to let in light, breeze and lizards! One had to climb to the terrace to close them or there were huge sticks with hooks to manipulate them to shutting positions from the ground floor.

    The gopurams in temples have windows in the tower designed to let in light near the main sannidhis in many temples. Just by seeing the light rays, you can tell the time of day or season!

    Of course morden technology ensured light on Rama's forehead... But old temples seemed to have mysterious ways of ensuring this without optical mirrors placed by physicists!

    And then village homes had two sets of backdoors. One leading to the back yard but not outside the house.. That give you access to wells and machinery like grinders etc.. and the other that leads you to the goshala and gardens...

    Then there are the windows in basement homes through which you can peer at the hasty feet of passers by in old Bangalore and hill stations.
    You started an avalanche of memories Shibhu! Great great writing! How do you do that? I think you can write books on almost every topic with global information!

    And how did we forget the famous balcony from which Juliet called out Romeo o Romeo.. Wherefore art thou Romeo? Or the window through which Mary, the Queen of Scots had her last peep before being led off... Or the tower window through which Rapunzel let down her hair for the prince to climb in?

    There is the famous window through which Sita first spotted Rama entering Mithila on the eve of her Swayamvara.. Captured in the eternal verse..."yaaro Ivar yaaro..enna pero?" Who is this, what might be his name? When she first saw him and decided he should be her groom and spent the agonising moments upto the dhanush cracking praying it would be that nameless beautiful person.. And it was!!

    Or the window through which Hanuman peeped at Ravana, speed the most ravishing Mandodhari by his side and was aghast at the thought that it might be Sita!

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  5. A different perspective. Very nice.

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  6. I don't think anybody could have so well described the beauty of Door and windows so well..Kudos to the writeup Sir..

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  7. While visiting, one get consumed in the aura of historical importance but never thought that finer details can be made such interesting . That’s Good Sir👍

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  8. Nice piece Debi. We travelled around the world with you.

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  9. A big thank you to all for reading my blog and also sharing your own thoughts.

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  10. Most ppl dont aware about these historical locations, leave aside the beautifully captured doors and windows. Its like traveling India. Thanks for sharing !!!

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