Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and It was Beautiful…

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

The mountain roads from Bagdogra to Gangtok ran parallel to the Teesta, narrowed and muddied with silt, yet playful in the few rapids. In Gangtok, the road mirrored the cheerful bustle of the capital city. M.G. Road was kept free for pedestrians only, who walked down the cobbled road going from one shop to the other. The colourful display of flowers in the centre of the road along the entire stretch, the inviting whiff from the bakeries and bright painted doors of the restaurants make it one of the most charming tourist spots. 

The traffic on the city roads seemed to follow the rules which ought to be obvious yet are oblivious in the metros- no honking, strict adherence to the traffic lights and sticking to lanes. The traffic cops were seen managing efficiently the fair share of traffic that Gangtok gets from the tourists. Sikkim uses AI Traffic Management System to enforce traffic discipline that detects violations, validates documents and issues eChallans immediately. They have long been enforcing odd-even vehicle rule for both public and private vehicles in Gangtok, restricting the number of taxi and tourist permits and utilising real time drones to monitor traffic flow, preventing bottlenecks and assisting emergency vehicles in navigating congestion.

As the road curved out of the city and into the higher terrains, unspoken rules seemed to follow. Sikkim restricts personal vehicles at certain places, ensuring local drivers and guides with permits to lead the tourists. The road, the car and the driver were one entity, travelling together. Steady speed, no unnecessary overtaking. The witty signboards of BRO offered a humourous twist to the often treacherous trails- Driving is Risky after Whiskey and Be careful on my Curves. 

Road from Lachung to Zero Point

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

The drivers in Sikkim had two Lords of the Roads- one was the Dog. No dog in Sikkim moved out of the way for the cars. The cars had to go around them. No complaints, no fuss. Every car in Sikkim had a sticker- Be Kind to Animals. It is not an imposition; it is the natural way of cohabitation and respect for all forms of life. 

The second was Lord Alto. We were unfamiliar with the joke that had its origin in a viral reel from a car rally in Atal Setu of Manali and found this rather amusing- the underdog, 800 cc Alto has been found to be able to traverse every possible road and terrain. While most of the vehicles of the mountain roads were SUVs, sighting of an Alto between the heavyweights was not surprising for the drivers in Sikkim who hailed this vehicle, Lord Alto!

Be Kind to Animals and hail Lord Alto

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

The foliage changed with height. During our visit in March, the rhododendrons, the state tree of Sikkim were just starting to cover the valley in a crimson hue. The Orchidarium in Gangtok was a one-of-a-kind museum with greenhouse providing a glimpse into hundreds of variants of orchid. The Yumthang valley was still bare, and the yaks were grazing in the lower levels. Soon the valley would be covered in a sea of purple primulas. Every house, big-small, old-new, finished-unfinished, along the way had a small garden or potted plants on narrow terraces, gleaming with multitudes of colours. 

On the way to Zero Point from Lachung, the cold desert appeared starkly bare and ominous after the cheerful vegetation of the rest of the state. Yet, the view of the snow-capped conifers in the distance was deliciously reminiscent of a dense chocolate cake with frosting! They say that the trees shed their snow all together one day, and that marks the onset of Summer in Sikkim. 

Rhododendrons

North Sikkim enroute Zero Point

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

In Gangtok, and at several other small towns that we passed, school children of all ages were seen walking back from schools in groups. Rosy cheeks, pigtailed hair, a sleeveless sweater or a light jacket as a part of their uniforms with backpacks. As we spotted some older students in uniforms, we were surprised to learn that in Sikkim, even colleges had uniforms to ensure a level of discipline and equality. 

The motif of The Four Harmonious Friends comprising of an elephant, a monkey, a rabbit and a bird can be found across the state as sculptures, engravings and paintings. A story from the Jataka Tales, it emphasizes that different people coexist while helping each other, putting the needs of others before self.

The Four Harmonious Friends

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

Most of our Sikkim trivia was based on the conversations with our driver-cum-guide, Sanjay. He had his own travel company, had been driving tourists around for almost 9 years, had vast knowledge and immense pride for his home. For 6 months a year, he drove around tourists and for the remaining 6 months, mainly during the monsoon and winter months, he took it easy at home, catching up on his exercise, movies and sleep. Life was happy. Here, the drivers are given free entry to tourist places when they first open like the Orchidarium, the ropeways and the bird parks. This allows them to gain first-hand knowledge that they can impart to the tourists. While nowhere do the shop owners follow you around and insist that you buy things, the guides have to take the tourists to the state owned handicraft museum in Gangtok to showcase and promote their wares. 

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

Leaves, green, brown and golden lined the roads. At almost every 500m, we came across dustbins. The flowers of Sikkim, red, crimson, pink, violet, yellow, orange and white were only to be appreciated on the trees and shrubs. Nobody is allowed to throw trash on the Sikkim roads. Nobody is allowed to pluck flowers. Nobody is allowed to feed monkeys on roadside. Plastic bottles are not allowed in North Sikkim. Anybody witnessing littering or plucking flowers can take a photograph and report to the concerned authorities ensuring a fine. 

Flowers of Sikkim

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

Flowers were not the only entities adding colours to Sikkim’s palette. The prayer flags lined the roads, houses, vehicles, bridges, mountain passes and monasteries. The five colours symbolize the natural elements- white for wind, yellow for earth, green for water, blue for sky and red for fire… billow in unison, singing in the wind. 

We sometimes passed a group of white prayer flags on tall bamboos in rows. These were 108 flags erected in memory of the departed souls. Our car once stopped on the road, allowing a procession to pass. This is followed everywhere in Sikkim when a village carries its dead, upright in a small cuboid box, for his final journey.

Yumthang Valley

Prayer flags across the valley

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

Om Mani Padme Hum, the deep, meditative chant echoed in the very air of Sikkim. The day’s journey would begin with this prayer. The monasteries were clean and quiet, silently expecting the same from the tourists. The monks playing cricket and dancing to popular songs was a jolly sight. In Enchay monastery, you could offer anything to the deities which included the usual fresh water, butter lamps, incense, fruits, and foods but we were most surprised to find bottles of Absolute, Old Monk and HIT offered at the altar! It is what you share happily with your heart that matters!

The devotion here goes beyond the traditional religious practices. Devotion is to the holy land itself. For the Bhutia and the Lepcha tribes of Sikkim, Kanchenjunga is the divine God, and no mortal must set foot on its summit. An Austrian team once attempted to conquer the 3^rd highest peak in the world, but they too stopped 10 meters short of the summit to respect the beliefs of the natives.

The game must go on

Buddha Park, Pelling

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

The clean air that we were breathing seemed to clear not only our exhausted lungs but also make unusual space for unending food in our bellies. Momos were best at small, roadside joints run by ever smiling women. They ranged from the usual chicken and cheese momos to mouthwatering pork and jhol momos. Thupkas, while we ate them day in and day out, seemed to always taste good and better than the previous place. Yak cheese or Chhurpi is a delicacy that must be tried. Tibetan specialities of Shyaphale, Bhakthuk and Thenthuk were novel yet comforting in a strange way. Even the smallest of shops provided the essential mountain food Maggi in cute, decorative bowls.  

Thupka 

Momos and more

Yesterday I was in Sikkim, and it was beautiful…

The season changed from day to day and even during the same day. A warm sunny afternoon would give way to a foggy, wet drive through the mist and rain without an ounce of visibility. A day long drive to North Sikkim was followed by a night spent in a fantastic resort but without electricity in the entire town and a group of super helpful staff…and a breathtaking sight of a sky full of stars. A sweaty, hectic hike was rewarded with a blast of chilling wind hitting your face on reaching the top. A road closure due to sudden snowfall led to a serendipitous detour from Nathu La and Changu/Tsongmo to Pelling. A grey day of pouring rain was followed by a crystal clear morning with white wisps of cloud patiently parting to give the best view of the majestic Kanchenjunga. 

Rainy day

A sky full of stars

Yesterday I was in Sikkim and it was beautiful…

The warmth extended beyond the food bowls. Tashi Dalek, the local phrase for namaste or welcome is also the name of one of the oldest hotels in Gangtok. A cup of Irish coffee on the rooftop restaurant of this hotel, a golden sunset and a cool drizzle, Sikkim was like an old friend embracing you. The people here were not only helpful, they took pride in their local culture and enthusiastically shared the knowledge. The police at check points would smile and enquire about your trip while checking the permits. Hotel staff would go out of their way to make sure you get a good view of their Kanchenjunga. 

Football holds an important place in their hearts with Baichung being revered by all. Women here are extremely hard working and are often seen in professions attributed to the XY sex by the tier 1 city folks. Traffic policing, restaurants, road and dam construction and clearing of landslides are handled efficiently by women who are seeing carrying both boulders and babies with the same skill and ease. Life is hard but people are also built harder.

Irish coffee and sunsets

Alpenglow

Yesterday I was in Sikkim and it was beautiful…

Is it strange that I would pray that it remains intact as my yesterday, like a time I have captured inside a snow globe? Can I turn it over in my heart and watch the white snowflakes fall softly and cover the unmistakable tip of the Kanchenjunga, the blue and grey raindrops patter down on a looping road, the golden sun rays falter down a vast valley, the green leaves swing off the tender boughs and the crimson rhododendrons blush gleefully to make me fall for them over and over again? Sikkim may change for the better tomorrow, and I may visit it again, but the Sikkim of my yesterday will be the most beautiful it ever was…

Mount Kanchenjunga

MS